Te Uruwera National Park

On Friday my aim to was get to the Te Uruwera National Park to walk the Lake Waikaremoana Track, which is one New Zealands 9 great walks. The 46km walk follows the lake from Hopuruahine to Onepoto and goes through prehistoric rainforest, offering a glimpse at how New Zealand used to be before European settlement. It is also home some of the more endangered birds in New Zealand including the kiwi. Waikaremoana literally means 'sea of the rippling waters' in Maori, and is home to the Nāi Tūhoe people (the children of the mist). When the Waitangi Treaty was signed (the peace agreement between Maori and European settlers), they were the only tribe to reject it, and there is still some tension to the day.

From Rainbow Mountain where I stayed for the night I left a little later than anticipated at it was a really misty morning which meant my tent was soaked. I knew I'd appreciate it later if I dried it there and then. When reaching the SH38 turn off I got a ride within minutes to Muhupara which is the last town before entering the national park. From Muhupara I got a ride to Ruatahuna with a guy guiding in this big delivery truck. It was a really slow drive as it was an unsealed gravel road which was windy and full of potholes, and a single lane in places. There were also several roadworks as the recent rainfall had caused a few landslips. From Ruatahuna I got a ride with some Americans who got me to the Hopuruahine Landing, the start of the walk. I didn't get there until gone 2 in the end, although I had covered a fair distance along what was essentially a gravel track.

From the Hopuruahine Landing, I soon got my first views of the lake and it was stunning. The weather was perfect which made it look extra clear. After passing the Whanganui Hut I headed towards the Tapuaenui campground, skimming the lake edge to get there. After climbing over the Pukehou Ridge I made it to the Waiharuru Hut. From here I continued along the lake edge for a bit before finding a nice secluded beach to set up camp for the night. I had great views across the lake towards the Panekiri Ranges which I go over later in the walk. I even went for a swim and the water was a lovely temperature, refreshing but not cold. The only thing was as soon as the sun went down the sandflys came out which were annoying little buggers.

On Saturday morning I was treated to a great sunrise with the sun rising the opposite side of the lake to where I was camping. The plan for the day was to cover the bulk of the distance to Onepoto at the finish, camping somewhere in the Panekiri Ranges. From my camping spot I continued to follow the lake edge, the path slightly undulating before eventually reaching the Marauiti Hut. The path continued to predominantly follow the lakes edge to the Korokoro campsite although it was a very hilly and muddy section of the walk.

From the Korokoro campsite there was an optional side trip to go and see the Korokoro Falls about a 30 minute walk each way. I thought I may as well so I followed the path upstream, en route crossing the stream which was challenging as it required using this rope system to rock hop, the stream particularly wide and swelled up at the crossing. It was a very slippery crossing. I soon reached the falls and it was a very pretty. On the way back however someone had twisted their ankle at the stream crossing. The girl and her two friends had all left their backpacks at the junction, but luckily I had my first aid kit and knew enough to know how to relieve the pain. Eventually another guy came along and helped me carry her out to the main path, where we were able to use the emergency radio at the campsite to get a boat out to get her. It just shows how much you need to respect wild country in New Zealand.

After my unplanned delay I pressed on towards the Waiopaoa Hut, the path continuing to follow the lake, although incredibly boggy in places. When arriving at the hut I stopped there for lunch. From the Waiopaoa Hut began the most strenuous part of the hike climbing from 600m to over 1100m into the Panekiri Ranges. The climb was an gradual incline for much of the way which made it a slog, but it did pass through some pretty native forest. The last section was really steep, but when up I just followed the ridge line, soon reaching the Panekiri Hut. From the Panekiri Hut I continued along the ridge line which was a little undulating, although the views of the lake were amazing. Eventually I started thinking about setting up camp for the night, looking for somewhere sheltered and discreet as it was incredibly windy out of the tree cover. In the end I found a great spot which was even nice and flat!

Come morning the winds had calmed down a fair bit which was a good thing as I was heading towards the Puketapu Trig, perhaps the most exposed section of the walk. I was only a couple of hours walking from the finish, but the main reason I decided to camp up on the ridge was so that when I reached the trig nearby the Panekiri Bluff, I had the sun behind me. This wouldn't have been the case if I went there the previous day. It was another perfect day and the view over the lake from the trig was absolutely stunning. I soon dropped down to lake level again after the trig to Onepoto Bay which was the end of the walk. I wanted to go for a swim once there but it was advised you didn't because it was near the hydroelectric dam which posed a risk of undercurrents so I thought I'd better not.

From Onepoto Bay I was tempted to do an additional walk to the Onepoto Caves, but I decided not to in the end because I was out of food supplies and I wasn't sure how easy hitching a ride out would be. Luckily I got a ride pretty easily down to Wairoa where I just chilled out by the riverside on the WiFi, having lunch there too. From Wairoa I headed towards Gisborne, managing to get there in one ride. I checked into a hostel there for a couple of nights just to relax a bit after my hike, but also to have a free day to have a good look round the city too which is meant to be a really nice place.