Hong Kong (part 1)

I left Hanoi Monday morning to catch a flight to Hong Kong. My original plan was to fly to Hong Kong on the 9th July and then fly onto Manila on the 15th July, but due to my issues with my Vietnam visa I had to change my plans. I managed to change my flight from Hanoi to Hong Kong, but was unable to change my flight from Hong Kong to Manila so I decided to leave it on the 15th July. This basically gave me 3 weeks in Hong Kong instead of my planned 1 week. Getting to Hanoi airport was fun and games as my bus dropped me off at the domestic terminal and not the international terminal, and the taxi drivers were trying to rip me off instead of helping me locate the international terminal which was only actually a 5 minute walk away. Once I was at the correct terminal it was easy, getting through check in and security with ease. I got through in such good time I was able to watch the full re run of the Colombia v Poland game whilst waiting for my flight.

The flight itself ran nice and smoothly although when landing it was a little bumpy, arriving in the pouring rain. I got through passport control without any problems, a nice change from my previous crossings. I stayed at the airport for lunch and to get my bearings, before catching a bus into the centre. Hong Kong is probably the most country like country which isn't a country in the world. To put it simple China 'leased' Hong Kong to the British Empire for 99 years in 1898 and for them 99 years and was under British rule. When that lease expired in 1997 Hong Kong was returned to Chinese rule, although China gave Hong Kong a new lease until 2047 whereby they maintained their separate government, currency, and border controls amongst other things. China describes it as "one country, two systems", although it will be interesting to see if they maintain that arrangement come 2047. Despite all that Hong Kong is arguably one of the most multicultural places in the world, housing an array of unique history, traditions, and modernity.

Hong Kong comprises of the Kowloon peninsula which is linked to the Chinese mainland, as well as over 250 outlying islands including Hong Kong Island lieing on the southern side of Victoria Harbour, which is where the main CBD is located. I decided to stay my first few nights in the Tsim Sha Tsui district which was on the opposite side of Victoria Harbour, but a great base to explore the city with frequent bus, metro, and ferry connections to just about anywhere. My hostel was located in a place called the Chungking Mansions, which felt like a completely separate city crammed into this skyscraper. The building itself was actually quite a tourist attraction in its own right with the many foreign residents living there offering budget accomodation as well as selling their local cuisines amongst other things from their home countries. It was a very multicultural place but certainly the most affordable place to stay in Hong Kong, with a great location to add.

The following day I went out and explored the Tsim Sha Tsui area, heading down to the harbours edge first thing where I got great views of the main city skyline the opposite side. I then followed the harbours edge, which was characterized by quite a large arts scene, to the Garden of the Stars which celebrated people in the Asian film industry. The Avenue of the Stars nearby was closed for renovation (Hong Kongs version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame), but the Garden of the Stars housed all the handprints of the film stars there instead. I'd never heard of anyone but it was interesting. I then checked out a couple of the museums which definitely seemed like something worth saving for a rainy day, before having a look round a few of the shops, something Tsim Sha Tsui had in abundance.

After lunch I went to Kowloon Park which was a nice and peaceful retreat from the busy skyscraper filled streets surrounding it. Within the park was the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre which was dedicated to Hong Kongs history and present day sites, as well as future developments which was all very interesting. I also particularly enjoyed this temporary exhibition dedicated to places to visit in China. Come evening I went down to the harbours edge to watch the Symphony of Lights, a light show produced by the skyscrapers the opposite side of the harbour. It was very impressive, although I think I needed to go down slightly earlier to get a better spot as it was very busy. I'm sure I'll get chance to see it again though!

On Wednesday I caught the ferry across to Hong Kong Island to explore the main CBD. Apparently when the British colonised the island it was just a few small fishing villages, now the entire northern shoreline is skyscrapers housing over 1.2 million people. After disembarking the ferry I followed the harbours edge to a few of the historic shopping streets, which included real weird things like dried turtles, deer fetuses, and birds nests. I then went down Hollywood Street which was famous for its antiques, the street also housing the Man Mo Temple, the oldest temple in Hong Kong. Inside was fascinating as it had these cages hanging from the ceiling full of burning incense sticks, which made the interior all smoky.

I then continued through to the Soho district which housed many of the high end restaurants, before heading up the mid level escalators, the longest escalator system in the world. Much of the city by the harbour is built on reclaimed land, and the buildings behind that are built on the hills edge which means the roads are incredibly steep. Once at the top of the escalator I continued climbing to Victoria Peak which gave great views over the city skyline. There was even a shopping mall and several entertainment facilities up there, serviced by a tramline. Whilst up there I did a short loop walk which gave further brilliant views, although you couldn't reach the true summit though.

After heading back down I continued exploring the city, which was just a maze of high rise buildings full of high end shopping and restaurants, and a lot of business people. I particularly liked these double decker trams which went through the city affectionately called 'ding ding trams' by the locals. I eventually made it back to the harbours edge where I passed this big observation wheel and got to the see what the skyline of Tsim Sha Tsui looked like. I caught the ferry back across later that afternoon. Come evening I went out and explored the Temple Night Market. Based down Temple Street it seemed to go on forever, and it seemed the further from Tsim Sha Tsui I got the cheaper it got too. By the time I reached the end I ended up in some area full a tarot readers, which is when I decided best to head back!

On Thursday I decided to go out hiking for the day, attempting a hike known as the Dragons Back which many people online seemed to recommend. Situated on Hong Kong Island, I caught the metro from the mainland to Chai Wan at the end of the island line. Within about half an hour of leaving the station I left all the skyscrapers behind and headed up into the Shek O Country Park. The walk headed along the ridge line of the hilltop with brilliant views of the coastline. I saw several snakes though so I had to be on the ball. It felt a world away from the city despite being so close! I eventually dropped down to sea level and stopped in the village of Shek O for lunch which had a nice and sandy beach.

From Shek O I followed the coastline as far as Big Wave Bay, before climbing back into the hills again, via this historic rock carving. There were more brilliant views of the coastline, and when reaching Pottinger Peak I got views over Victoria Harbour and the city. I then dropped back down into Chai Wan, emerging at this absolutely massive cemetery built into the hillside. On my way back to Tsim Sha Tsui, I had a quick look round the Wan Chai area of the island, before catching the ferry back across to the mainland. In the evening I went out and watched the Symphony of Lights again, although I still haven't worked out where the best spot to stand is! I then stayed up to watch the England game which was a 2am kick off.

On Friday I had a far more relaxing day as I didn't get to bed until gone 4am in the end. I decided I would go and visit some of the markets, focusing on the ones round the Mongkok area north of Tsim Sha Tsui. First stop was the Jade Market, although it was a nightmare looking round as the sales people were ridiculously pushy in their sales techniques, some even getting physical when trying to sell me their products. I gave up looking in the end, so headed to the Ladies Market which was more like a traditional British market selling just about anything. Nearby there was also this Clothes Market which sold all your standard fake designer clothing.

I then made it to the Goldfish Market which was basically this street full of fish shops, many selling the fish inside these bags hanging from their shop windows. My favourite market the day though was the Bird Market which had all these cages hanging up with all kinds of birds for sale. I finished off at the Flower Market, before having a look round some of the shops round the Mongkok area, which seemed to be home to primarily outlet stores. When getting back to the hostel I just relaxed for the rest of the day, having a nice and early night.