Huacachina and Nazca

Friday was an incredibly early start, leaving at 5am to try and avoid the awfully busy roads of Lima. We also had the chance to meet the 5 new people on the truck who had replaced the 7 who have left. They all seem like very nice people and are all staying to Rio. From Lima we are also parrelling with a second truck who we are doing some things with and some things without. We managed to leave Lima with ease and we were soon on clear tarmac roads which was nice.

First stop of the day was the Ballestas Islands which are a series of rock formations in the turbulent waters of the Pacific just off the coast of Paracas. Sometimes referred to as the "poor man's Galapagos", the islands have an abundance of wildlife, including Humboldt penguins, Blackish oystercatchers, cormorants and Peruvian boobies living alongside vast colonies of sealions, all noisily crowding the Ballestas coastline and jostling for space. It was here we went for a boat trip around the islands to see this wildlife and we weren't disappointed seeing an array of wildlife.

After the boat trip we went to this restaurant for lunch which was predominantly seafood. I had the cerviche which was effectively raw fish. The portion was massive though in terms of how much raw fish I could enjoy in one sitting. After lunch we continued our drive onto Huacachina, which is a sparkling oasis nestled in the deserts near Ica in northern Peru, an area that is more reminiscent of the Sahara than South America! This picturesque lagoon is surrounded by palm trees and towering sand dunes and creates a tranquil oasis in the dusty coastal desert. The small town here has become a popular destination for travellers due to its incredible sand boarding and dune buggying opportunities. We arrived here in good time for a afternoon and night of activities.

After loading an overnight bag on this jeep, we got into these dune buggies and drove out into the desert where we drove over these dunes at some speed. It was a great thrill. We eventually at the top of this massive dune to go sandboarding down it face first which was hilarious. We stopped at 4 different locations to do this and I did really well on 3 of them but lost control on the last one and ended up with a mouthful of sand. This included a lot of dune buggying action inbetween.

It eventually started getting late so we went to the top of another dune to watch the sunset which was spectacular. We then headed to our camp for the night, which was basically this crater. This was good as it kept us out the wind which carried a lot of sand in it. We relaxed here and had this amazing bbq and a bottomless glass of Pisco which was very drinkable. It was nice to bond with the new people here and after the bbq we had a campfire and stayed up late into the night. We eventually went to our bed which was basically the desert floor. The sand went everywhere though but it was lots of fun!
After an interesting nights sleep in the desert we left our crater at about 6.30am and dune buggyed back to Huacachina and the oasis for breakfast. It was very damp when we woke up though for some reason. We had breakfast in Huacachina which was eggs again before setting off on a short drive to Nazca to see the famous lines.

The Nazca lines are enormous geometric designs and petroglyphs inscribed on the ground of the desert on the arid high plateau between Nazca and Palpa - some of the figures are over 200m across in size. Many of the lines form stylised depictions of animals, such as monkeys, spiders and hummingbirds, as well as trees and other designs. We stopped en route at this viewpoint where we were able to view two of these designs. They were very faint but we could see them.

We arrived at our campsite in good time and after putting the tents up we had lunch. After lunch we had the option to do a flight to see the Nazca lines from above. I decided to stay and relax by the pool with the wifi as it was very expensive for what it was the flight. When everyone who did the flight came back they said they weren't blown away so I didn't miss much. Come evening we relaxed by the pool before dinner. Dinner was chicken pasta and after clearing up a lot of people had an early night.

Come morning we had an 8am departure to further explore the Nazca area. First stop of the day was this aqueduct system used by the Nazca people to control the water. It was very dry though as it hasn't rained in a long time. The nearby river was even completely dry. We then moved onto the Cahuachi Pyramid which was part of the remains of the old Nazca capital. Archaeologists have only uncovered a small area of this site and a lot of remains under the sand due to lack of funding. It was interesting walking round the old site and our guide was very informative.

The next stop was the Chauchilla Cemetery where we stopped for lunch. We then walked round the large site home to over 400 graves, 13 of which were restored. Due to the lack of rain and unrelentless wind which was very strong there are mummified remains in very good condition. The remains even had hair remaining. It was quite eerie in a way with random bones lieing everywhere and apparently the place is cursed.

After exploring the cemetery we left the Nazca area and drove to our campsite for the night in Puerto Ica, situated on the Peruvian Pacific Coast. Legend says the Incas used to transport fish from this old fishing port to Cuzco 360km away by foot in less than 24 hours. Prior to here we stopped at this olive plantation and got to try various different samples. We spent the evening relaxing, with an amazing sunset, and an equally good bbq including heart which I don't think I've tried before. We then had a big campfire with the other truck and celebrated one of our group members birthdays late into the night.

Lima

When I woke up in the morning I felt a lot better which was a good sign. We left Huaraz at 7 for the long drive to Lima, driving back the way we came to the coast along the stunning Casma route. We had breakfast on the truck which was an assortment of cakes and pastries, and a lot of fruit which had been purchased the day before. The drive down the mountains was pretty smooth and we were soon on the coastal tarmac road and able to cruise along without any problems.

For lunch we stopped at this restaurant in the middle of nowhere, although I have an onsite farm and play area which kept us amused. The food took ages to come though. We then made one big push for Lima, although the city was massive. It is in fact the 2nd biggest city in the Americas. The outskirts was effectively shanty town and it felt like we were driving through them for ages. The roads were also chaotic as no one seemed to us their lane, with cars all over the place and beeping.

We arrived in Lima pretty late in the end as it was so busy coming in. Lima is split into various different districts and we were staying in the old town. After unpacking we went out for dinner at this steak restaurant. I shared a mixed grill with someone as they did mixed grills in sharing platters. There was a lot of meat. We also said goodbye to 7 members of the group here, including my truck parents who have been on the truck since Cartagena. Afterwards we went out to a few bars and it was pretty late night.

Come morning I was up pretty early and after breakfast set out to explore Lima with a few others. We looked round a couple of churches and this big market place selling all sorts of stuff, before heading the main square, which was a mission to get into. All the streets in were cordoned off as apparently the president was home, but we managed to get in by blagging our way onto a tour group. We watched the changing of the guard and looked round the cathedral, before going for lunch at a local restaurant which had awful service.   I had the lasagne.

After lunch I went with a couple of others to another district, Miraflores. This is the rich part of Lima full of big shops and the banking. It was also by the coast. What we actually went to see was the Paddington Bear statue. It was cordoned off however but we could see it. We wanted to go down to the sea but we couldn't work out how to, so we headed back to the old town after a while. Our taxi driver on the way back was a lunatic though! 

Come evening I decided to go and visit the fountains and the light show. I went to pizza hut for dinner before and it was a fair walk to the fountains. It was pretty spectacular with uv lighting and music creating images and shapes with the water. There were various different fountains and I spent quite a while looking round. I then headed back to the hotel and relaxed and had an early night as we had a very early start the following morning.

Huaraz

We left Huanchaco at about 7, ready to climb to our next destination of Huaraz. Breakfast was cereals and toast and we left promptly making fast progress along the flat coastal roads. It wasn't until about midday when we started climbing, stopping for lunch in Pariacoto where I had the chicken. It was impossible to order food though and the people just basically have us the limited dishes they had available! We had a bit of time to look round Pariacoto too which has was about 1300m up, surrounded by hills in all directions.

We then climbed rapidly along winding mountain roads on what is known as the casma route. The scenery was just stunning and we climbed up to about 4200m, even stopping a few times for some natural toilet breaks as we were drinking so much water. When at the top we started decending and we treated to some views of Huaraz which is situated high up in the Andes, dominated by the highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca. Looming over the town is Peru's highest peak, the 6,768m mountain of Huascarán which was amongst the many snowcapped mountains in the skyline. Huaraz itself is about 3000m above sea level.

After checking into our hotel which we arrived at by 4, we had to chance to relax before dinner. For dinner we walked about 10 minutes through town to this curry house. I have to say Huaraz is probably the place that has felt most dangerous so far in South America and I would not feel safe walking down some of the backstreets alone. Lots of drug dealers and drunks everywhere and the place has a reputation for violent muggings. The restaurant we went to however had English owners and I had the fillet steak rogan josh with chapattis which was really good. It took ages to arrive though. We headed back together to the hotel and I had an early night ready for the morning.

Huaraz has many options for activities and we were given an array of options for the 2 days spent in the city. On the Monday I decided to go on a tour to the nearby Pastoruri Glacier. In the past you could go on ice climbing on this but due to global warming it's not as good as it used to be. What I effectively booked instead was a bus trip which included stops at viewpoints and a hike to the glacier itself. There were 8 of us from dragoman on this trip, joined by 4 other random people from other hotels in the city. Leaving at 9 we stopped en route at this cafe where we had some coco leaf tea stuff which apparently prevents altitude sickness.

After the cafe we soon left the tarmac and went off road on this very bumpy gravel track, stopping later at this viewpoint where we could see the snowcapped mountains. There were also two llamas here all dressed up, even wearing sunglasses! We then continued driving a short way, stopping at these large tree things which I can't remember the name of. They were weird. There was also these hot springs here as well. The next stop we saw some interesting rock paintings, before continuing to the point where we started our hike which was 4800m up. That is very high compared to what I've been to before for an extended period.

The hike itself wasn't challenging, being a 2.5km walk along a concrete path past lakes to the glacier itself. Once at the glacier I went over the 5000m mark for the first time but I felt fine, although a couple of others had to head back. The view of the glacier however was just stunning and my photos just didn't do it justice. We were able to go right up close and the surrounding lakes had perfect reflections inside them. The surrounding area was just snowcapped mountains too. We stayed here for quite a while getting pictures.

We the headed back the same way back to the bus where after having lunch we drove back down to Huaraz. It was a very bumpy ride going down the winding gravel track however! We arrived back in Huaraz at about 5 where I relaxed for a bit before dinner, where a few of us went out to this pizza restaurant. I had the calzone and chips, and my new favourite drink of inca kola which I discovered last week! We then headed back where I had another night with an early start planned for the morning.

On the Tuesday I opted to do a day hike to a lake called Laguna 69. This however required an early start and we met at 6 for breakfast which was eggs. The reason we left so early was because it was about a 2.5 hour drive to the start point. En route we stopped at this village where we bought coco leaves to try and prevent the altitude sickness. We arrived at the start point by half 9 and we were told to return by half 3.

The walk to Laguna 69 itself was a 7km walk each way, starting at about 3800m, and rising to 4600m. 800m height gain is challenging anyway but in altitude it is even harder and we were warned to take extra care. The 11 of us who opted to do the trek set off and we were allowed to go our own pace as the path was pretty obvious, with out guide at the back. The walk started off relatively flat following this fast flowing stream along grassland. There were amazing views of the snowcapped mountains surrounding us, including Peru's highest peak behind us.

After a while we began to climb, winding through bushes on a gradual zig zag path. The views were stunning with waterfalls cascading down the sides and the mountains. The final bit of the climb was quite tough however. To put it into context, the landscape reminded me of the lake district, but if you were to take away the oxygen as the air was so thin. After reaching the top we got to this small lake and the terrain levelled out, with cows grazing in this boggy grassland. It was difficult here as due to the glaciers above us melting so rapidly there were effectively streams in various places which were difficult to bypass.

Before long we began to climb again up another zig zag path, this one being far steeper. It was very difficult to breath but we took it nice and easy and eventually made it to the top where we were greeted with a breathtaking sight of laguna 69. With snowcapped mountains surrounding it and waterfalls cascading inside, it was just breathtaking. I even paddled in the water but it was freezing! Everyone arrived at different times, but after being told there was a 60% success rate of making the lake prior, all 11 of us made it. We had lunch up here and got lots of photos before heading off in clusters back down the same way. 

The walk down was quicker but felt longer. We could appreciate just how far we climbed, and actually breath properly when decending. This also gave us the opportunity for more amazing photos. We got back to the bus at half 3 on the dot although a few others were a little slower. We ended up heading back at like 4. The drive back took ages though due to traffic, not getting back until like 7. I then spent the evening relaxing as my head caned, probably altitude sickness, but it was fine after a while. I then had an early night.

Huanchaco

Friday was another long drive day. The issue with where we are at the moment is that Lima is a 1200km drive approximately from the border along the coast, and there's not much inbetween as the terrain is arid and effectively desert. Due to this we left our campsite at 6am and had breakfast on the truck. The good thing however was that the roads were both smooth and flat which meant we could cover a lot of ground in a lot less time compared to the mountain passes we've done prior.

En route we stopped at the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, a world-class museum that showcases the finest artefacts from the archaeological finds at nearby Sipán. The ancient city of Sipán was a settlement of the Moche civilisation that thrived in the area between 50-700 CE. The ruins were discovered in 1987, and when excavated revealed a set of fantastic and well-preserved royal tombs. Although some tombs had been plundered, many were found intact and full of some of the most extraordinary historical treasures ever discovered in the world! Amongst the most impressive discoveries made here is the tomb of the famous ‘Lord of the Sipán’, a Moche priest found buried amidst an array of gold, jewels and fabrics - some phenomenal gold and silver ornamental and ceremonial artifacts were recovered, which demonstrate the outstanding craftsmanship of the Moche metalworkers. It was very interesting looking at artefacts on show, although use of cameras were forbidden.

After the museum we had lunch at this restaurant where I had the fish, although it was full of small bones. We then continued our drive south along the coast, arriving in Huanchaco at about 7, so it was a very long day. We had an amazing sunset from the truck though and the sky just turned red. We also had another music quiz on the journey this time with a Disney and musicals theme and I was surprisingly good at it. We also unleashed our new play list where we pick 5 songs each and play them. They didn't shuffle them this time though and my 5 songs were the last 5 songs played. We once again had option to upgrade in Huanchaco,  although I camped. I think I'm the only person not to upgrade so far. After the tents were put up we went out for dinner, where I went to this beach bar with live music. I had the beef and onions with chips.

Huanchaco is a small town on the Peruvian coast that is rapidly acquiring a reputation for the quality of the surfing off its relaxed beaches. Wandering along the sea front you come across the local fishermen's "caballitos de tortora" - curved reed boats left propped up in groups together on the sand. Huanchaco is an ideal location from which to explore the numerous archaeological ruins that surround the nearby city of Trujillo. The town itself felt very British as it had a pier and lots of seaside bars and restaurants. After going for a run along the seafront in the morning, and having breakfast which was surprisingly egg based, we left around 9 for a morning to explore the nearby ruins.

First stop was the pyramid-shaped Huaca de la Luna, the impressive remains of the capital of the Moche civilsation that flourished between 100-800 CE. The site contains some phenomenal abode structures and well-preserved painted murals of the Moche deity Ai Apaec. The structure itself has never been restored after being discovered deep under desert sand, and is simply maintained. Much of the structure was sandstone although it doesn't erode as it simply just never really rains. The artwork was amazing. I did somehow prove a hit with these Peruvian a school kids here though and they thought I was really hot. I literally got surrounded and they all wanted pictures with me, while the rest of my group continued the tour.

We then went to the ruins of Chan Chan, a vast adobe city constructed as the capital of the Chimú civilisation which thrived in the area between 900-1470 CE, when they were finally invaded by the Incas. This area was vast and just surrounded by desert for miles in all directions. We had another guided tour here which was very interesting. Apparently they're even expecting rain within the next year due to the el nino effect, something I studied in geography. After the tour we had a truck lunch which was basically fruits and sandwiches, before heading back to the campsite early afternoon.

The afternoon was free time where I relaxed, before going to the beach to look rounds the shops and walk on the pier. I then watched the sunset which was pretty impressive before heading back to the campsite before dinner. For dinner I had this Peruvian seafood paella which was really nice. I then headed  back to the campsite and sat outside for a while. I even had wifi inside my tent.

Punta Sal

Wednesday was another long drive day, with a border crossing chucked in for good measure, so there was the potential for a very long day. We left at 8am and breakfast was egg based once again. The drive out of Cuenca was interesting though as there were lots of roadworks. Outside of the city they were constructing lots of new roads as tunnels which meant there were effectively off road diversions which were one way. The scenery was still amazing though as we were basically decending from 2600m down to sea level.

We stopped for lunch about 20km off the border in Santa Rosa where I had ribs. I wanted the goat meat but they didn't have it. We then eased our way through the border compared to the last one. It was literally stamp out, stamp in, and drive off. Shortly after crossing the border we stopped in Tumbes to get money although everyone ended up with big notes which was not ideal. We ended up arriving in Punta Sal and our campsite by like 5.

Located right on the beach, our campsite was literally in the middle of nowhere. We pitched up our tents right by the sea under these umbrellas and soon after had this amazing sunset. Dinner in the evening was this fish bbq with salad which was really good. We then made a campfire and it was a really good evening. We could even see Venus, Mars, and Jupiter in the sky. It ended up being quite a late night.

Come morning we had 3 options for the day. We could either stay at Punta Sal and relax on nti the beach all day, drive to the town of Mancora and spend the day there, or visit some turtles and spend the afternoon in Mancora. I went for the turtles. Breakfast in the morning was pancakes, and we left at 9. The place where we visited the turtles was a commercial place where they basically fed wild turtles to aid their tourism. Some people were a little skeptical but I still swam with them and it was an amazing experience.

After the turtles we drove into Mancora where we headed straight down to the beach for lunch where I had the burger. I then went and found a sunbed a short some wifi and just spent the afternoon relaxing, before getting up and looking round the shops and markets of Mancora. We spent most of the afternoon here and ended up arriving back in Punta Sal at like 5. When getting back I went straight in the sea, although the waves were so strong. They could literally knock you off your feet. Dinner in the evening was spaghetti bolognese, and after dinner we had another campfire, including marshmallows this time, before having an earlier night due to an early start the next morning.

Cuenca

Monday was was effectively a drive day and we were warned it could be a very long day. With about 500km to cover on windy roads, we ended up leaving at 6am with a packed breakfast to eat on the truck. It was a very fresh morning, and shortly after leaving we stopped as there was a fantastic view of the snowcapped Cotopaxi volcano which was very impressive. We couldn't see it when driving in because of the clouds, but we were luckier today. Breakfast was these cheese sandwich based things. The cheese out here is like plastic though so a lot of people have been craving stuff like cheddar for a long time. What I miss is a full English breakfast however. 

We stopped at various points en route for toilet breaks, and had lunch on the outskirts of Alausi where we had spaghetti, chicken, and rice, quite an interesting combination. Once again the scenery outside was stunning, and we passed a lot of snow capped peaks. We also passed a lot of whole pigs being cooked on these poles! We did keep ourselves amused on the truck though playing a few games like cards and this game where you draw and write what you see, a bit like Chinese whispers.

We ended up arriving in Cuenca at about 6pm, so it was a long day. After settling into the hotel we went out for dinner to this pizza restaurant. Instead of ordering a normal pizza a few of us ordered 2 of the jumbo pizzas which were massive and shared them. They split the toppings up so we had lots of different types of pizza and this saved lots of money. After dinner we went to this karaoke bar and it was a funny evening. I managed to destroy quite a few songs, although smashed a high school musical duet like usual. We then went back to the hotel and sat in their secret garden, although it turned into quite a late night.

Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city and its small centre is home to some beautiful architecture. The city was founded in 1557 and named after the city of Cuenca in Spain, the birthplace of the Viceroy of Peru at the time. This small university town is a pleasure to explore, and you'll discover impressive churches that date back to the 16th and 17th Centuries, attractive colonial buildings, tranquil plazas and lively markets. The Ecuadorians consider it the finest city in the country, and many of its buildings are constructed from marble and decorated with stunning woodwork and ironwork. Cuenca is also the home of the Panama hat, and you can visit one of the famous hat factories and watch the skills of the craftsman here.

Breakfast in the morning was eggs, fruits, and croissants. It was nice to have some kind of lie in in the morning too. At 10 we had the option of meeting to visit the Panama hat museum. It was really interesting as we got to see the whole process of how they are made, and then try some on at the end. There was even this balcony in the museum where we got a good view of the city. Some people even bought some souvenir hats, although one person bought 250 of them to ship home for their business or something!

After the museum I headed back to the hotel, before heading out to explore the city. I wasn't really sure where to go as everyone was doing different things, so I decided to go on the city bus tour. There was only 3 people of the whole open top bus. With English commentary I saw lots of the churches and rivers that flow through the city. There was also a lot of interesting graffiti and architecture. The tour also took me to the top of this hill where we able to get off and see the skyline. We also got to try this local drink which was like hot water with this sugarcane spirit. I even climbed up to this canopy to get an even better view of the skyline. When getting back on the bus we headed back into the city centre to see some more of the buildings, before arriving back at the square where I started around 2 hours later.

When getting off the bus I headed out for lunch, where I found some British based cafe and had the bacon cheeseburger and chips. I then went and visited the local market which sold many foods and handicrafts. They even had whole pigs including their heads being carved. Another interesting thing were there locals whacking children with these plants and rubbing it all over then. Apparently this is a blessing or something. I headed back to the hotel around 4, where it was nice to relax. Dinner in the evening was up to us so I went with a few others to this local restaurant where I had the sausage and chips. Everyone then had an early night although I stayed up a bit later while the wifi was actually working properly because basically no one was on it.

Chugchilian and Quilatoa

We left Rio Verde about half 8 on the Saturday,  after another breakfast which was told to be strictly anything other than eggs. Our next location was the village of Chugchilian to visit Quilatoa, a volcanic crater. What we did have though was a lot of climbing as the lake is high above sea level and Rio Verde is not. We stopped off en route in Ambato, and also the small village of Zumbahua for lunch later on. The mountain pass we went over to this village took us over 4000m for the first time! For lunch I had lamb with rice and salad, and a short time after lunch we arrived in Chugchilian about 2 ish.

Chugchilian is set in the slopes of the Rio Toachi Canyon, and is well known for having many stunning hikes in the surrounding areas. We were given the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. I looked round the village which was actually very lively with this intense volleyball match taking place, and the locals being very friendly. Our hotel itself even had a games room with a pool table and table tennis to name a few games. The only thing it lacked was wifi. I then ended up having a nap afterwards as I was exhausted after the previous nights camping. Dinner in the evening was pork which was really nice. I then ended up having an early night, although the temperature had plunged massively so it was freezing.

After a good night's sleep I woke up Sunday morning raring to go to visit the nearby crater. Lake Quilotoa is a beautiful volcanic crater lake located at 3,600m above sea level in the hills between the villages of Zumbahua and Chugchilán. Its emerald water spans a circle with a diameter of 2kms - Quilotoa is an active volcano, but the last major eruption was over 850 years ago. The lake also lends its name to the Quilotoa Loop, given to the winding circuit of spectacular dirt roads that connect Lake Quilotoa to Latacunga and the Pan-American Highway. The roads that lead away from Latacunga are unpaved, winding and have spectacular views of the mountains, rivers and verdant landscape.

Breakfast in the morning was eggs with bread and fruits. We set off in jeeps at about half 8 to drive to the lake, arriving by 9 where we had a brief look round the village, before going to this viewpoint to see the stunning emerald colour lake. We were then given the option to either walk down into the crater or look around Quilotoa, being given a strict meeting time of 11 to return. I decided to walk into the crater. The views of lake was just stunning and I shot down to the waterside within half hour. I even touched the water. Despite many people trying, only 5 of us made it to the bottom. The walk back up was a lot tougher however as being at altitude the air is lot thinner meaning you get out of breath more quickly. It was also very hot. I took about an hour to get back up but the walk was worth it just for the views alone!

I reached the top again with time to spare and met the others to take in the view one last time. We were then given the option of walking the 10km back to Chugchilian, or taking the jeep back to the hostel to relax. I chose the hike and we set off following the rim of the crater. The clouds decended at this point however making it nice and cool, but not cold. The views of the crater were still just as stunning, although the terrain was very loose underfoot meaning a lot of care had to be taken. Before long we left the crater and decended rapidly down the loose terrain into the valley, where at the bottom we had our packed lunches in this remote village. This dog had followed us from Quilatoa all the way here and was in its element here as everyone was feeding it!

After lunch we continued decending, initially following this dirt track, and then dropping into the canyon past waterfalls. The scenery was just amazing. Once on the canyon we headed back up the other side, and followed the edge which was badly eroded in places through to another village where the locals were thrilled to see us. When leaving the village we decended once again into the canyon down a very loose path through rocks and trees right down to this stream and this road. We were then allowed to walk our own pace back to the hostel as the pace en route had been very pedestrian. I therefore tanked it back to the hostel, and somehow never got out of breath despite going back uphill once again. I arrived back at half 3, with the dog who passed out, and we cheered everyone in who arrived over the next hour or so.

I then spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing, with dinner being at 7. Dinner was fish, and after dinner I played pool for a bit, before heading to bed for another early night. Everyone was just really tired, and we had a 6am departure time in the morning!

Rio Verde (Banos)

Tuesday night was somehow an early night as one minute I was packing my bag, the next minute it was like 6am. I think I needed the sleep. After breakfast and a few people having a meltdown because of the election result, we set off at like half 8 for the drive to Rio Verde where we're camping for 3 nights. We stopped shortly into the drive in the town of Tena to do some shopping as we have a few meals to cook. I also got some new flip flops here as my other ones died at the equator.

After leaving Tena we continued driving, stopping at Puyo for lunch where I had this amazing mixed grill, 3 types of sausage, chicken, pork, beef, potatoes, corn and salad. We then continued onto our campsite arriving around 3ish. One thing Rio Verde is famous for is waterfalls, in particular the The Devil’s Cauldron (El Pailon del Diablo). A few of us decided to walk to this waterfall which was about a 20 minute walk after setting up the tents. I probably shouldn't have worn flip flops though as we at the top of this canyon and it was very steep decending down the waterfall below. There was a few viewpoints en route and this incredibly wobbly swing bridge too! When at the bottom we went for a swim although it was very refreshing!

We spent a while at the waterfall before climbing back the incredibly steep steps to return to the campsite. We had a treat in the evening though as the owners were Argentinian and they cooked an Argie Barbie for us. They didn't mess about chucking big joints on the bbq and serving us hunks to eat. It tasted amazing. After dinner it started raining quite hard but luckily there was a nice living area to sit in where we stayed for quite a while, good night though.

Where we are staying at Rio Verde is near the town of Baños, nestled in the shadow of the fiery Tungurahua volcano. Tungurahua is one of Ecuador's largest active volcanoes, and provides an incredible backdrop to treks and explorations in the area. There are some beautiful waterfalls, excellent trekking and mountain biking opportunities, and some famous volcanic hot springs which give the town its name! Baños is basically the adventure capital of Ecuador. On Thursday I therefore decided to go canyoning. Breakfast in the morning was some granola mix (eggs were banned).

Leaving about half 8 we drove into Baños where we went to the canyoning headquarters to be kitted out with wetsuits and helmets. We then drove to the canyon near Rio Negro and got out safety talk and had to practice abseiling before entering the canyon. We didn't end up entering the canyon until gone 11. The first part p of the canyon required us to stand on a rock and just fall backwards into the water below. We then had to jump off this waterfall although the water below was very shallow! Everyone managed this fine but then the fun and games started.

The next section required us to jump off this 10m waterfall. There was the option to avoid it by abseiling instead. The first couple of people went fine, but then someone jumped but jumped straight down instead of leaping out, which meant they landed in these strong currents and got pulled down. When retrieved they were unconscious and had to be revived with chest pumps. It was quite scary. The issue with where it happened though was that it was literally in a canyon in a pool with waterfalls both sides, so it very challenging to relax. I was last to jump but I had to contend with other issues as the weather had turned and it was hammering it down with rain, which meant the water level was rising rapidly and the flow was getting faster. I jumped in fine but the currents were so strong. 

The next section was effectively a zipline, where I had to abseil down the waterfall and then fall backwards into the canyon. At this point however the water flow was getting dangerous and we had to get out. This was not easy however as there were just rock cliffs all around us so we had no choice but to let the rapids take us downstream. Luckily further downstream we found a tree and managed to climb out. About 10 minutes later we would have been screwed if we stayed in the water. We then climbed up this very steep and muddy hill through the trees and emerged through the bushes onto the road. It was a relief when out as it had got quite dangerous in terms of the power of the water flow.

It was typical that after we got out the sun came out, and after getting changed we drive to Rio Negro for lunch where I had beef. We then went back to the campsite where I relaxed before going for a walk to Rio Verde which was the nearby village. It was nice to look round and sit by the river. I spent a couple of hours here before returning to the campsite. Dinner in the evening was this vegetable stir fry which was nice. After playing cards and stuff after dinner, I ended up having an early night. 

On Friday I opted to go ziplining, and after breakfast we set off into Baños and got a safety briefing before heading up the hill into the canopy. There were 6 ziplines in all, and after being kitted out in harnesses we walked to the first line. The first one was a sit down one which required us to brake with our hand. I was awful. The second one I went upside down. I wasn't expecting to go out the trees and into the canyon though, it was quite high up! The third one I went superman and it was fun. The fourth one I did in a sit position again because I wanted to admire the views. The fifth one we went in pairs superman style holding hands. And the last one, also the longest one, I sat down. It was lots of fun!

After the ziplining I was planning to go to La Casa Del Arbol and the swing at the end of the world. I have seen many pictures of this online and really wanted to go. I was going to go on my own but after showing someone else there ended up being 7 of us going! On a clear day you can see the Tungurahua volcano which is 2.5km away, but it was cloudy. I still got some great pictures though which create an illusion you're swinging into the canyon.

After the swing most people headed back to the campsite, although I decided to get off in Baños. A couple of us had pizza, before going our separate ways. I had a good look round the town which was very adventure equipped and touristy, dominated by the surrounding hills. I then found an Irish bar and watched the England v Scotland game, where there were actually a few English inside. The beer there was so strong though, the weakest one was like 6.6%. After the game I decided just to do a little pub crawl as the bars were pretty lively. I then somehow negotiated the bus system to get back to the campsite which was 17km away. My Spanish is getting better by the day.
Dinner in the evening was pad thai which was really good. We then stayed up for a bit before having another relatively early night.

Ecuadorian Amazon

We had another start Sunday morning for the shortish drive to our next stop in the amazon. The truck was loaded before 7 and breakfast was once again egg related, setting off by 8. Getting out of Quito was quite a challenge though as many of the roads were closed which meant it took longer than expected to reach the main road.

Once out of Quito we got onto some more spectacular mountain passes, driving through increasingly jungle like surroundings. The road was dodgy in places though as some of the barriers and road had collapsed due to landslides! We stopped en route at this lake where we got a few pictures, and I walked down to this little jetty which was nice. We arrived at our lodge in the amazon by lunchtime, where a lunch of grilled chicken and chips was waiting for us! Our accommodation is really nice, staying in these hut things en suite, with even a hammock provided!

We spent the afternoon relaxing, before heading off for a trek into the jungle at 3 to walk to this waterfall. We had a guide, and en route we stopped and learned about various different plants. I didn't really understand what was going on half the time but the plants had fascinating smells and tastes. Like one plant had ants inside which we ate, and another when squeezed let out this potent smell which they tricked into putting into my mouth. Other fascinating plants included this fern which closed its leaves when touching it, and this tree which had this orange substance which they rubbed on our skin which was apparently good for you.

When arriving at the waterfall we had the opportunity to swim. I decided not to go in although a few people braved it. The walk itself was interesting as it was wet and muddy, and slippery in places which made it challenging when going up and down hill. We ended up staying out for about 3 hours hiking, but we didn't go far as we stopped so often to learn about the surroundings. Dinner in the evening was this beef medallion with these croquettes and other stuff, preceded by this mashed potato style soup. We even had this chocolate fudge cake after. I went to bed early though in the evening as lack of sleep was catching up with me!

After an early night Sunday I woke up Monday with a solid 10 hours sleep in the bag which was much needed. It was raining in the morning though. After breakfast which was tropical fruits and fried eggs for a change, with these potato things, we were told to get ready for a 9am start for another walk into the jungle. We continued to learn about plants on the walk, and our guide once again made various silly things like hats and bracelets for us out of leaves for us to wear. There were even opportunities to swing on these vines which was fun. It wax once again very slippery underfoot although they have supplied us with wellington boots for the duration of our stay.

We eventually arrived at this cave which were able to explore. It was effectively a stream but absolutely fine to walk through in wellies. We were in there for quite a while and needed torches, which I didn't have but it was fine. The issue was there were lots of massive spiders on the wall, and even bats inside. Some of the passes were slightly narrow but there were never a time I had to crawl and it was very interesting exploring. We exited the cave in a different place. When leaving the cave we walked back to the lodge, via this waterfall where we had the chance we swim again. It was nice however just standing nearby and letting the mist hit me as it very humid!

We arrived back at the lodge shortly before lunch where we had this traditional pastry thing, then this popcorn soup which sounds weird but worked, followed by steak with all sorts on the side, and this pineapple thing after. I wasn't really expecting a four course lunch but it was good. I then sat the afternoon relaxing by the pool, before getting ready for a trip to another set of caves which we left to visit at 3.
To get to the next set of caves we got in the truck for a 20 minute drive to visit them. A few people decided not to visit these ones and relax at the lodge. These caves were a lot bigger but also a wetter and required swimming in places. Once entering the cave and swimming through the water, we soon climbed up through some tight passages, with no need to crawl, where we sat down after a while and learned about the religious significance of the caves, and even had a  minutes silence. We then headed back to the water and followed the water up to this waterfall where we allowed to enter it. The first one was this plunge pool which I dived about 5 metres down this tight hole to pick up this gravel at the bottom. The second part was a chance to jump into the pool which I fell off and banged my leg after misjudging my step, although I was fine. We finally exited the caves by scrambling up these rocks and coming out in the jungle.

After walking back to truck we went in the local swimming pool filled by the natural green water. It was very exciting as there were water slides which were lots of fun. We ended arriving back at the lodge by like 6. Dinner in the evening was another soup, followed by this chicken based meal, and then this flan. After dinner though was exciting as we got to learn how to make chocolate. We roasted the cocoa beans and after they were nice and hot peeled the shells off them. We then had to crush up the insides into this powder, and then mix in some milk and sugar and heat it again into this thick melted chocolate mix. We then added our choice of flavour, so I added honey and it tasted amazing! The evening was then spent relaxing, although it was raining again. We were in rainforest with respect.

Tuesday was another full on day, with breakfast at 7.30 for an 8am start. Breakfast was pancakes and eggs, with tropical fruits. We went out in the truck when everyone was ready and drove to this indigenous village where we learned about their lifestyle. The first part took us to the river where we panned for gold. There was actually gold but in minuscule amounts after filling a bowl with mud and cleaning it out. We then went into the village where we learned about their hunting techniques. We got to use this big tube thing which fired an arrow when blowing inside it. We had to try and hit this wooden parrot. I missed but not by far.

We then learned how to make this drink which was called chisa or something.  It was basically made by boiling some yucca and then mashing it up into this paste. After adding water it was wrapped inside this leaf and left for 3 days. Luckily they skipped this step for us and the final drink was this milky coloured liquid which tasted really sweet. We then learned about how they made pottery and got to play with the clay. They used different coloured stones which they crushed to powder to colour their pottery and the final pieces were very impressive. 

After leaving the village, we continued our drive to the river Napu where we got on a boat for a trip down the river. They were basically big canoes with a roof and motor. The river Napu is a tributary to the river Amazon. We didn't see much wildlife en route, although we did travel through jungle and along brown murky water, with some gentle rapids along the way! We stopped after a while at this animal rescue centre where we got to see various animals including monkeys, anaconda, camon, and wild cats. It was very interesting.

After looking round we got back into the boats and headed back upstream which was actually quite challenging against the flow. The boat I was on even hit a rock at one point which was sketchy. We didn't end up arriving back until 3 where we had lunch, beef stew, before driving off to the town of Misahualli which is known to have monkeys roaming round. The monkeys basically couldn't be bothered to live in the jungle anymore so came to the town. We saw quite a few although they wouldn't stay still!

 We arrived back at the lodge at close to 6 so it was quite a long day. Dinner in the evening was soup, this vegetable bake thing, and this fruit salad. Everyone was going on about the us election though which was interesting.

Otavalo and Quito

Friday was a later start as we only had a short drive to Quito with a few stops along the way. One thing I'm renowned for in the group is how open I am about my bowel movements. This morning was extra impressive as I literally had a green poo. I'm not sure if it was a sign I was ill, or the fact I was drinking this herb vodka the night before.

The first stop of the was Otavalo. Otavalo is a small town in northern Ecuador nestled in beautiful surroundings a short distance from Quito. Many of the local indigenous communities in this area still wear their traditional clothing made from intricately woven and decorated fabrics, and the men tend to wear their hair in long ponytails. The Otovalan weaving skills are quite renowned and they are rightly famous for their textiles - so rugs, wall hangings and knitwear are all well worth buying here!

In Otavalo there was a massive market and we spent a couple of hours here, where I bought a hat and poncho, an alpaca, and a new t shirt. You had to barter with the sales people which was fun even if my Spanish is dreadful! After leaving the market we continued to the Mitad del Mundo monument which means middle of the world where the equator lies. It was fun jumping between hemispheres and there were plenty of things to read and a tower we could climb on the monument.

After looking at the moment and getting lots of funny photos, we had lunch, where I decided to have a subway. We then took the short drive into the centre of Quito where we checked into our hotel and relaxed for the afternoon. Quito is the capital of Ecuador, nestled in a hollow in the mountains in between the volcanos Cayambe, Pichincha and Cotopaxi - at 2,850m above sea level, it is the world's highest official capital city. Founded in 1534 by a group of settlers led by Sebastián de Benalcázar, the town slowly grew throughout the Spanish colonial era and after the region's independence from Spain in 1822.

The colonial old town is a maze of steep, cobbled streets with intricately carved, overhanging balconies, and some of the best examples of Spanish colonial art and churches anywhere in the Americas - along with Kraków, Quito was the first ever World Cultural Heritage Sites declared by UNESCO in 1978. The modern area of the town is lively and has some fantastic restaurants and bars. Quito's mix of European and Indian cultures make this a really fascinating city, with stalls displaying Indian textiles, colourful wall hangings, jewellery, pottery and woodcarvings. Quito has some incredible museums, galleries and parks in the city, and some excellent adventure activities and mountain treks nearby for those with extra time in the area.

We met for dinner about 7 where we went to this restaurant and I had this double American cheese burger. We also had the dragoman awards as only 10 of us were continuing onto Lima. I won the worst bowels award and the best couple award. As we were staying in the new town and there were lots of bars nearby so we went on a bar crawl after dinner. I particularly enjoyed this beach bar with sandy floors. People left gradually, but I however had quite late night and it was probably wasn't my wisest move to go to some Ecuadorian nightclub on my own, but the locals were fascinated by me.

After a late night I woke up about half 9 for breakfast, eggs again, before taking a taxi into the old town with a few others. We looked round the square and went into the church which was interesting. I then took a taxi up the hill to this monument where we were able to get a good view of the city skyline. I felt very lightheaded up here though, although I wasn't sure if it was dehydration or altitude sickness.

We then headed back the hotel where I spent the afternoon chilling, and saying bye to the people who were leaving. At 6 I was meant to go to a welcome meeting to meet the new people joining the group, but instead I went out to a few bars and this lovely pizza restaurant with one of my friends who was leaving. This was in the old town and it was really nice night although there were a few dodgy characters around!

Ipiales to Otavaldo

Wednesday was another drive day, this time travelling from Popayan to Ipiales. Unlike the previous day however the roads we're mountain roads which made it difficult to get any speed together. It's really hard on mountain roads as you get slow lorries and it's just a bendy single carriageway which makes it difficult to overtake. Breakfast in the morning was tropical fruits and cereal, and prior to leaving I took a walk to the main square of Popayan, filled with big white colonial buildings.

When leaving we the scenery got noticeably more arid for some reason compare to the luscious green hills in previous days, and after a while we stopped in Cumbitara for lunch where I had this beef stew thing. I never know what I'm ordering so I just hope for best by saying Pollo or Carne which means meat or chicken. There was also a nice little market here which was worth looking round. 

After lunch we continued climbing, stopping for a viewpoint en route for the scenery, and also stopping at this cafe where I had this big monster cake which turned my mouth blue. We didn't arrive to Ipiales until dark and it was quite a long day. Ipiales itself is the border town between Ecuador and Colombia, famous for the nearby Santuario de las Lajas, a neo-Gothic church and bridge built over a river, because someone said they saw Mary on this rock so they built the church around it. Dinner in the evening with burritos at a local restaurant which was very nice.

Thursday was another early start for the border crossing, although before leaving Colombia we visited the Santuario de las Lajas. We stopped en route at this viewpoint where we got an aerial view of the church, before heading down to the view the church itself. There were lots of markets to look at, and many viewpoints around the church which I walked to. I was even able to look inside the church. It's amazing how they constructed it.

After exploring the church and surroundings, we drove to the border where we experienced a few problems. To put it simple we made it across to Ecuador minus 4 people. We had no problems getting to the border and on the Colombian side we stamped out without any problems. We then walked over the bridge to the Ecuadorian side where most of us got a visa without any problems. One person however had just gone under the 6 months remaining stage on their passport. This was a problem and the officials refused to give a visa. Our guides tried to bribe the officials with money but that was unsuccessful.

We sat in the truck for a while things were being sorted, without success, and as a result we lost that person, their husband, and two friends. It was very emotional saying goodbye to 4 people who we had got so close to over the last few weeks. There were further problems however for them, as the Colombian border wouldn't let them back in so they were effectively stuck in no man's land. They did eventually get back into Colombia although instead of leaving us in Quito, the British embassy is having to sort something out in Bogota.

We eventually left the border with a more empty truck, and stopped pretty soon for lunch where I had beef. Ecuador use the us dollars as well. We then continued onto Otavaldo, arriving in the dark again. The scenery was pretty stunning too en route. We may have played drinking games on the truck on the way though however. When arriving we checked into dorms and had dinner where I had spaghetti bolognese, and also someone else's chilli con carne. The evening was then spent in the jacuzzi which was very relaxing, heading to bed after a few hours inside!

Salento and Popayan

On Monday we were able to have a later start as out next destination of Salento was only a short drive away. What I did take the chance to do due to this was to go running with a couple of others in the group as they kept pestering to come with them for ages. It was a nice run although hard work due to hills and the thinner air from the altitude. When we got back breakfast was nearly done which was breakfast burritos. It's funny all this cooking for each other as a few people are competitive and want to make better food than everyone else, which is probably a good thing for me!

After breakfast we had the choice of walking up the hill and meeting the truck or catching the truck up. I walked up for the second time that day after my run. The track was very windy and small so the truck needed treating with respect going up which is why it took so long. It's amazing some of the roads we're fitting the truck down! The drive to Salento was pretty smooth and we arrived there by lunchtime, although in the rain.

Once camp was set up I went and relaxed in a hammock, before going off at half 2 for a walk in the Cocora Valley which was about a half hour drive away. This area is known for having some of the biggest palm trees in the world. At an elevation of 2700m at the start, we hiked up to 2900m, although we couldn't so the loop walk at the weather wasn't great. We still managed to have lots of fun though, despite it being very slippery underfoot. It was sketchy going downhill though as we took an alternative route where we we climbing over barbed fences and going down very steep hills!

We ended up arriving back at camp at about 6 in the dark. As it was halloween night we had organised a Halloween party so before dinner we got some outfits together. Some of the outfits were really good, only being made out bin bags and other materials! I got my face painted and wore some tinsel,  although I looked ridiculous. Dinner in the evening was ratatouille and meatballs which was really nice. We then partied into the night although it was another late one!

With a long drive day on Tuesday morning, I ended up getting about 2 hours sleep. Breakfast in the morning was porridge and fruits. There wasn't actually much planned for the day, just get to Popayan, although en route while looking for somewhere to stop for lunch we discovered the town on Villa Rica. You could tell this area wasn't Spanish immigrants but more a settlement of ancestors from the slave trade, and when arriving there was this children's festival on. Everyone was dressed up and when we drove in they were thrilled to see us!

We stayed here for lunch where I had the chicken and rice, although it was so salty. I even bought some mango off the street after and that was covered in salt too so they must like salt there! I then just got involved in the festival although I was basically surrounded by excited children. I don't think they see tourists very often. I got loads of selfies and had some kind of conversation with them, mainly about football.

When leaving we were chased down the road, and made the last push to Popayan, where we arrived like 4. We actually made really time as the roads were basically all dual carriageway on good surfaces unlike some of the roads we've had! We arranged to meet at half 7 for dinner, so I just relaxed. It my turn to have own room as well. Dinner was the pizza where I had this curry pizza which was very interesting! I then had an early night as I was exhausted after the previous night.

Manizales

When waking up Saturday morning it was still raining, although a lot less than before. You could see how much rain had come down though! With a short drive to Manizales we left at 8, after yet more scrambled eggs!

Manizales is a friendly city right in the heart of Colombia's coffee region with a comfortable climate and plenty to see and do. Although still opening up to international tourism, Manizales has a lot to offer the visitor in the way of outdoor activities and ecological attractions. The town itself is a relaxed and friendly place centred around the magnificent cathedral with attractions such as the botanical gardens, thermal springs and eco-parks all easily access able from the centre of town.

Venturing a little further, you will find coffee haciendas and plantations in the surrounding area as well as some beautiful country landscapes perfect for trekking or just taking a relaxing break in the great outdoors. In Manizales we stayed on one of these working coffee plantations covering approximately 480 acres which provides people from around the world a taste of the finest Manizales fair trade coffee. The plantation employs around 100 people all throughout the year and about 400 people during the peak picking season.

We had another pretty spectacular drive throughout the mountains, climbing massively as Honda was in a valley and the only way to Manizales was straight over the Andes. The road was very slow and windy, and at one point we ended up on this ridge with shear drops both sides. There were also cheers at we reached 3000m for the first time, although we continued climbing. Before long we were in cloud and then above the cloud in what is known as cloud forest. We went as high as about 3700m in the end before decending into Manizales. We were kept amused on the bus as we found out names meaning in Japanese!

We arrived in Manizales at about lunchtime where we we given about 3 hours to explore, have lunch, and get ingredients for our meals. My group had 6 people in, and was assigned to cook the nights dinner and next mornings breakfast. We split into a 4 and 2 though and I was in the 2 to sort out breakfast. It was funny getting the ingredients as a couple of people were getting stressed from other groups. For lunch a few of us when to this Italian restaurant where I had the pizza.

Our campsite for the night was a on a coffee plantation outside of Manizales. We arrived at a reasonable time, setting up camp and then relaxing. It was nice to be back on the beers after a 3 day dry spell. Dinner in the evening was this Japanese curry which was amazing, with big chunks of beef and vegetables. The Japanese man in our group had bought his own spices from home which made a very interesting flavour. We even had this chocolate mousse made up too. After dinner the guitar came out and it was a very funny evening, although I may of had quite a late night.

Sunday morning was meant to be the day I cooked breakfast for the group, although when I got up everything was prepared as people had got up early. It was probably a blessing in disguise as I didn't get to bed until like 5 and felt horrendous when waking up. Breakfast was scrambled eggs with leeks and mushrooms, bacon, and fruit. I did do the washing up however!

As we were staying on a coffee plantation, we had a guided tour of the place during the morning. We firstly walked up to the house where we learnt about how coffee spread round the world and the different types. Colombia produces 8% of the world's coffee. After a lengthy talk and some free samples we entered the actual plantation and walked through where we could see all the coffee beans growing, many of which were ready to be picked. We then continued walking round the plantation for a while which was absolutely vast when you think about it.

After a while we ended up at the place where they dry the beans and prepare it for exports. It was very interesting and we were even able to sample some the  actual beans. The final part of the tour took us to this main guesthouse where we were learnt the different flavours and roasting processes and we're able to taste some of beans. I don't really drink coffee but it was nice to taste the bean, which was very bitter.

The afternoon was effectively free time, so most of us went to the pool where we had our packed lunches and went for a swim. I felt exhausted by this point though so I headed back to our campsite and zonked out in a hammock for the afternoon. I got a bit of sleep but someone did decide to chuck water at me which they thought was hilarious...

Come the evening we had the most amazing bbq prepared by some Colombian locals. There was so much meat and salads, including whole joints, and they were so particular about the charcoal used to cook it. It was probably up there with my top 5 meals ever. We were stuffed by the end, and there was a lot of meat leftover. Afterwards we had some live music from a Colombian band which included lots of dancing. It was also one of our group members birthdays so we made a big thing of that! I bossed the dancing. I had a relatively early night after the entertainments.