Friday was a busy day, with a tour of the nearby moon valley planned as well as stargazing at night. Despite this we had a free morning so I had a good lie in. San Pedro is a small oasis town in the Atacama desert in northern Chile. It's a quirky little place - low-lying adobe buildings line the narrow streets, leading to a sleepy tree-lined plaza that's home to a pretty white-washed church. I spent the morning relaxing, going out for lunch at a local restaurant which had good wifi and spent much of the afternoon there. San Pedro itself is very hipster and touristy and I liked the vibe a lot.
Our moon valley tour had a 3pm meeting time. The unusual desert landscape of "Moon Valley", just a short distance outside San Pedro, is home to other-worldly rock formations, unusual layer-cake landscapes and huge dunes to combine and create some incredible views. The sunsets here can be
amazing, the changing light turning the stone and sand a kaleidoscope of
different colours. Our first stop was an area full of rock formations where we walked through deep passages and even caves, even having the option to do some challenging sections of scrambling.
We then continued onto an area where we saw this massive sand dune. We couldn't sandboard on it though unfortunately. The views were pretty stunning though. Our stop after that was a short hike to the top of this hill where we got more amazing views. Our final stop was sunset time where we sat on the edge of the cliff, basically the plate boundary because you see your obvious scar in the ground and watched an amazing sunset. Sunset is now like 8 to half 8 so the days are definetly getting longer.
When getting back to to San Pedro we had time to kill before our stargazing tour which started at 12. I therefore went to this local steak house for dinner and had a proper lump of meat which was really good. I then relaxed before heading off stargazing in the desert. We had a very informative guide and the sky was so clear. You could literally see the milky way and he pointed out many different formations out to us which was really interesting. We even had 9 different telescopes set up to view various different stars and constellations. I however didn't get to bed until 3am!
Saturday was an early start, having to meet at 5am for back locker so I didn't get much sleep. With a border crossing, a lot of distance to cover, and our route going straight over the Andes, we were braced for a potential long day. En route to the border a lorry carrying loads of new cars fell over which want great, but we eventually got to the border and it took ages to get through. They basically wanted to completely empty out truck, and wouldn't stamp us in until they had touched everything. They even had dogs and x rays.
When we finally got through we stopped for a roadside lunch a short way down the road. Lunch was empanadas, and we were soon back on the road, not arriving into Salta until like 6pm. Salta is an attractive town in the north west of Argentina. Nicknamed "Salta la Linda" (or "Salta the Beautiful"), the city is well known as being a stunning town in a beautiful area. Home to some fantastic colonial architecture, the old town centres around the main plaza which is lined with cafes and restaurants, a great place to independently explore and soak up the serene Argentine atmosphere. After checking into the hotel we went out for dinner although it was a mission finding somewhere open because I think Argentinians have their Christmas dinner on Christmas Eve which meant everywhere was shut. In the end I found a burger van and just had to eat there.
Christmas day was a free day to explore Salta, although we had booked ourselves a bbq for the afternoon. Breakfast in the hotel in the morning was croissants and hams and cheeses and stuff, and after breakfast we did our secret Santa. I got an Inca Kola t shirt and a headband. We then had the morning to relax before heading out to the bbq at 1, which was at a hostel out of town. It was quite disappointing in reality basically being chicken, wedges, and salad, although there was a lot of it, and obviously the drinks were flowing.
We had the option to go back after the bbq or stay at the hostel and catch taxis back later, so I decided to stay and we played pool and sat by the swimming pool until late, before getting back to Salta at about 10. For dinner I went to McDonald's which was open like most of the rest of the town which was heaving. We then sat in the hotel lobby and it was quite a late night.
Wednesday, 28 December 2016
Sunday, 25 December 2016
Bolivian Altiplano
Wednesday was finally our time to leave Uyuni, and we had made a plan to get past the road blocks by basically bribing the protesters. After a buffet breakfast and doing some shopping for food whilst on the altiplano, we left and after 15 minutes or so we're met by the road block. Unlike the others, the protesters had blocked a bridge which meant going round was impossible. We therefore went with our bribe plan, firstly trying coco leaves, and then money, but they wouldn't let us past.
Whilst this was happening I got out the truck with a few others and started clearing the road of rocks. The protesters however had phoned for back up and we were soon confronted with angry locals with rocks and pick axes and had to leg it back to the truck where we simply had to put our foot down and drive off to avoid conflict. We therefore ended up back at square one in Uyuni. We decided to have lunch when getting back to think of a plan b. Lunch was simply sandwiches. With the hotel being next to an army base, we managed to get some army officials to come to the road block with us and they eventually managed to get us through. The tail back of lorries affected by the block as we passed the other side was massive. We were finally on our way to the Bolivian altiplano.
The high Bolivian altiplano stretches hundreds of kilometres from the small town of Uyuni out across to the borders with Argentina and Chile. It is real wilderness - there are no roads up there, just a few tracks to follow, and you're
more likely to see llama or flamingo than another human being! Wild and remote, the high altiplano is made up of barren semi-desert open plains dotted by streams and lakes, many of which appear vividly coloured due to the mineral deposits in the water. The lakes are flanked by the impressive volcanic peaks of the high Bolivian Andes. The altitude is considerable and it can be very cold and windy.
As it took so long to get out of Uyuni, not actually getting out until about half 2, we decided to just get to our stop for the night in the mountain refuge before dark. En route we stopped at San Cristobal for snacks, and then later at the rock valley which had some very interesting rock formations. The drive was interesting though as we encountered a sand storm which meant the visibility was very poor. There was also a lot of lightning in the distance. We arrived at our mountain refuge before dark.
When arriving we set up our kitchens, before having some free time while they were cooking dinner where I went up to visit this plane wreckage. I managed to stand on the wing and this all took place during sunset! Dinner in the evening was chilli con carne, followed by this pannetone. We then sat inside the basic shelter we were sleeping in before having an early night with an early start morning, as well as me being on breakfast duty.
I was up at like 5am in the morning ready to cook breakfast which was eggs bread. It was pretty straight forward and after clearing up we left promptly for a full on day of sightseeing with a border crossing chucked in for good measure. The scenery from the truck was spectacular and very remote and we saw plenty of Llamas en route. Our first stop was laguna Colorada which was a redish coloured lake home to many flamingoes. To avoid scaring them we all walked in one long line and approached the lake slowly. We managed to get right to the lake edge without scaring them and got a brilliant view of them as well as some stunning surrounding scenery!
After the lake we continued onto these geysers, first stopping at this man made one where we were able to tread on this hole and make a lot of the volcanic gas spew out! We then went to the real deal where we saw a massive amount of gas come out of the ground as well bubbling mud. It reminded me a lot of Rotorua. The next stop was lunch where we ate next to the hot springs and another lake full of flamingoes. Lunch was the usual which was nice and easy to prepare.
The final stop before the border was laguna Verde which was a green coloured lake which turned blue in the wind. It wasn't windy so it was just green. We then pushed towards the border which was basically just a shed in the middle of nowhere where we got stamped out. The drive to the Chilean border was another 50km away however so we effectively drove through no man's land for a good hour. The Chilean border was a lot tougher however and unlike the other borders we had to have the truck searched and our bags scanned through x rays so it took a while.
We eventually got through, although it was quite late when arriving in San Pedro de Atacama, not helped by the clocks going forward an hour. After checking into our hotel we went out to get money and food, where a few of us went to a local restaurant where I had a bbq which was basically a plate full of meat! We then went back to the hotel and started our week of wine drinking with us passing through many different wine regions in the coming days, and it was really nice.
Whilst this was happening I got out the truck with a few others and started clearing the road of rocks. The protesters however had phoned for back up and we were soon confronted with angry locals with rocks and pick axes and had to leg it back to the truck where we simply had to put our foot down and drive off to avoid conflict. We therefore ended up back at square one in Uyuni. We decided to have lunch when getting back to think of a plan b. Lunch was simply sandwiches. With the hotel being next to an army base, we managed to get some army officials to come to the road block with us and they eventually managed to get us through. The tail back of lorries affected by the block as we passed the other side was massive. We were finally on our way to the Bolivian altiplano.
The high Bolivian altiplano stretches hundreds of kilometres from the small town of Uyuni out across to the borders with Argentina and Chile. It is real wilderness - there are no roads up there, just a few tracks to follow, and you're
more likely to see llama or flamingo than another human being! Wild and remote, the high altiplano is made up of barren semi-desert open plains dotted by streams and lakes, many of which appear vividly coloured due to the mineral deposits in the water. The lakes are flanked by the impressive volcanic peaks of the high Bolivian Andes. The altitude is considerable and it can be very cold and windy.
As it took so long to get out of Uyuni, not actually getting out until about half 2, we decided to just get to our stop for the night in the mountain refuge before dark. En route we stopped at San Cristobal for snacks, and then later at the rock valley which had some very interesting rock formations. The drive was interesting though as we encountered a sand storm which meant the visibility was very poor. There was also a lot of lightning in the distance. We arrived at our mountain refuge before dark.
When arriving we set up our kitchens, before having some free time while they were cooking dinner where I went up to visit this plane wreckage. I managed to stand on the wing and this all took place during sunset! Dinner in the evening was chilli con carne, followed by this pannetone. We then sat inside the basic shelter we were sleeping in before having an early night with an early start morning, as well as me being on breakfast duty.
I was up at like 5am in the morning ready to cook breakfast which was eggs bread. It was pretty straight forward and after clearing up we left promptly for a full on day of sightseeing with a border crossing chucked in for good measure. The scenery from the truck was spectacular and very remote and we saw plenty of Llamas en route. Our first stop was laguna Colorada which was a redish coloured lake home to many flamingoes. To avoid scaring them we all walked in one long line and approached the lake slowly. We managed to get right to the lake edge without scaring them and got a brilliant view of them as well as some stunning surrounding scenery!
After the lake we continued onto these geysers, first stopping at this man made one where we were able to tread on this hole and make a lot of the volcanic gas spew out! We then went to the real deal where we saw a massive amount of gas come out of the ground as well bubbling mud. It reminded me a lot of Rotorua. The next stop was lunch where we ate next to the hot springs and another lake full of flamingoes. Lunch was the usual which was nice and easy to prepare.
The final stop before the border was laguna Verde which was a green coloured lake which turned blue in the wind. It wasn't windy so it was just green. We then pushed towards the border which was basically just a shed in the middle of nowhere where we got stamped out. The drive to the Chilean border was another 50km away however so we effectively drove through no man's land for a good hour. The Chilean border was a lot tougher however and unlike the other borders we had to have the truck searched and our bags scanned through x rays so it took a while.
We eventually got through, although it was quite late when arriving in San Pedro de Atacama, not helped by the clocks going forward an hour. After checking into our hotel we went out to get money and food, where a few of us went to a local restaurant where I had a bbq which was basically a plate full of meat! We then went back to the hotel and started our week of wine drinking with us passing through many different wine regions in the coming days, and it was really nice.
Friday, 23 December 2016
Uyuni
We left Potosi relatively early so we could visit this train museum which was apparently the site Butch Cassidy was killed. We also wanted to arrive into our next stop in Uyuni in time for lunch. After breakfast we set off and made good progress, with some very wild west like scenery outside, and a lot of Llamas. Unfortunately we got a phone call after a few hours informing us of protests surrounding Uyuni and as a result we decided to skip the train museum as it sounded nasty.
We soon arrived in proximity of Uyuni but we're met by this road block where the police informed not to continue and take an alternative route into the town. The locals had literally blocked the road with rocks and were angrily throwing them in our direction. Our only choice was to turn off the road and go off road to avoid the chaos. We basically followed the dried up river, doing some serious off road manoeuvres which was actually quite uncomfortable in what was effectively a truck.
After stopping many times to assess the terrain, we got to a sandy section where we basically got stuck. As a result the shovels came out and we dug ourselves out, but got stuck again another 3 times! We eventually got onto better terrain, but we soon came across some vehicles in front who were stuck themselves, so ended up having to help them out before we could continue. We eventually got to Uyuni at about half 2, a lot later than expected but we made it. Apparently there are road blockades all around Uyuni so it could be interesting leaving.
Uyuni itself feels a bit like you've reached the end of the road. The remote small town sits on the edge of the high altiplano, a wilderness that extends for hundreds of kilometres towards the border with Argentina and Chile. After checking into the hotel we went out for lunch where I had the tacos. We also discovered Gus had a lot of issues arriving too as they reached the blockade we got to, and then the locals boxed them in by throwing rocks behind the truck effectively trapping them. Luckily they got out but they had to walk 7km into town and leave the truck trapped with the driver as there wasn't much else they could do.
After lunch I had a look round the town, before heading back to the hotel to relax before dinner. Dinner was pizza which was amazing, and I even had chocolate cake for dessert. I was going to go to this place called the extreme fun pub after dinner which has some pretty lethal drinking challenges, although I was still feeling pretty achy so I decided to lie down in the hotel instead before bed.
We had a relative lie in Tuesday ready for a day trip to nearby salt flats. Salar de Uyuni is a truly unforgettable sight, and a landscape quite unlike anything anywhere else in the world! The Salar de Uyuni is a dazzling dry lake of over 12,000 sq. kms, made of blinding white interlocking salt crystals. It is the world's largest salt pan, and is bright white expanse that stretches as far as the eye can see. Getting there was the issue though as the locals had created roadblocks on most roads out the town. First stop however was the nearby train graveyard which was a series of abandoned train carriages and engines left to rust over many years. It was very eerie although we were able to climb on them and get plenty of time to explore.
After the train graveyard we started heading towards the salt flats. As the main road had been blocked by protesters we took an alternative route off road. Some locals saw us leave however and lobbed rocks at us as we left. From what I can make out they are protesting over land rights with the government, and as a result are trying to shut down the town for tourists as a message of intent to the government. A bit further down the road we found they had dug trenches in road to stop us, which meant we had to get out and fill them in. There were several of these which slowed us down a lot, but we eventually got through and rejoined the main road past the roadblocks.
En route to the salt flats we stopped at a market where we also visited a salt processing plant to learn how they use the salt. We also had chance to explore the market. The next stop a short way on was a monument for the Dakar rally as well as a series of flags. By now we were on the salt flats and I was glad I invested in a pair of sunglasses as it was so bright. We then continued driving for an hour or so to this island full of cactuses where we had lunch. Lunch was chicken, pasta, roast potatoes, and salad.
After lunch we had chance to explore the cactus island which also presented us with brilliant views of the salt flats. It was about a half hour walk round the island. We then drove a short way to get some perspective bending photos. Our driver had fallen asleep in the toilets however so we had to wake him up as everyone else drove off without us! We spent a while taking photos before driving back to Uyuni.
On the way back it started raining, although it didn't come to anything. When approaching Uyuni however the locals had clocked onto the route we took and they were waiting for us with shovels and rocks and had completely blocked the road. As our drivers were Bolivian they got out and in the end we had to bribe them to pass. We eventually got to Uyuni and the hotel although it's going to be fun leaving tomorrow as practically every road is blocked with protesters. Gus is still stranded with the driver. When getting back I went out for dinner somewhere with actual wifi and ate this beef based dish. I then relaxed in the hotel before going to bed.
We soon arrived in proximity of Uyuni but we're met by this road block where the police informed not to continue and take an alternative route into the town. The locals had literally blocked the road with rocks and were angrily throwing them in our direction. Our only choice was to turn off the road and go off road to avoid the chaos. We basically followed the dried up river, doing some serious off road manoeuvres which was actually quite uncomfortable in what was effectively a truck.
After stopping many times to assess the terrain, we got to a sandy section where we basically got stuck. As a result the shovels came out and we dug ourselves out, but got stuck again another 3 times! We eventually got onto better terrain, but we soon came across some vehicles in front who were stuck themselves, so ended up having to help them out before we could continue. We eventually got to Uyuni at about half 2, a lot later than expected but we made it. Apparently there are road blockades all around Uyuni so it could be interesting leaving.
Uyuni itself feels a bit like you've reached the end of the road. The remote small town sits on the edge of the high altiplano, a wilderness that extends for hundreds of kilometres towards the border with Argentina and Chile. After checking into the hotel we went out for lunch where I had the tacos. We also discovered Gus had a lot of issues arriving too as they reached the blockade we got to, and then the locals boxed them in by throwing rocks behind the truck effectively trapping them. Luckily they got out but they had to walk 7km into town and leave the truck trapped with the driver as there wasn't much else they could do.
After lunch I had a look round the town, before heading back to the hotel to relax before dinner. Dinner was pizza which was amazing, and I even had chocolate cake for dessert. I was going to go to this place called the extreme fun pub after dinner which has some pretty lethal drinking challenges, although I was still feeling pretty achy so I decided to lie down in the hotel instead before bed.
We had a relative lie in Tuesday ready for a day trip to nearby salt flats. Salar de Uyuni is a truly unforgettable sight, and a landscape quite unlike anything anywhere else in the world! The Salar de Uyuni is a dazzling dry lake of over 12,000 sq. kms, made of blinding white interlocking salt crystals. It is the world's largest salt pan, and is bright white expanse that stretches as far as the eye can see. Getting there was the issue though as the locals had created roadblocks on most roads out the town. First stop however was the nearby train graveyard which was a series of abandoned train carriages and engines left to rust over many years. It was very eerie although we were able to climb on them and get plenty of time to explore.
After the train graveyard we started heading towards the salt flats. As the main road had been blocked by protesters we took an alternative route off road. Some locals saw us leave however and lobbed rocks at us as we left. From what I can make out they are protesting over land rights with the government, and as a result are trying to shut down the town for tourists as a message of intent to the government. A bit further down the road we found they had dug trenches in road to stop us, which meant we had to get out and fill them in. There were several of these which slowed us down a lot, but we eventually got through and rejoined the main road past the roadblocks.
En route to the salt flats we stopped at a market where we also visited a salt processing plant to learn how they use the salt. We also had chance to explore the market. The next stop a short way on was a monument for the Dakar rally as well as a series of flags. By now we were on the salt flats and I was glad I invested in a pair of sunglasses as it was so bright. We then continued driving for an hour or so to this island full of cactuses where we had lunch. Lunch was chicken, pasta, roast potatoes, and salad.
After lunch we had chance to explore the cactus island which also presented us with brilliant views of the salt flats. It was about a half hour walk round the island. We then drove a short way to get some perspective bending photos. Our driver had fallen asleep in the toilets however so we had to wake him up as everyone else drove off without us! We spent a while taking photos before driving back to Uyuni.
On the way back it started raining, although it didn't come to anything. When approaching Uyuni however the locals had clocked onto the route we took and they were waiting for us with shovels and rocks and had completely blocked the road. As our drivers were Bolivian they got out and in the end we had to bribe them to pass. We eventually got to Uyuni and the hotel although it's going to be fun leaving tomorrow as practically every road is blocked with protesters. Gus is still stranded with the driver. When getting back I went out for dinner somewhere with actual wifi and ate this beef based dish. I then relaxed in the hotel before going to bed.
Tuesday, 20 December 2016
Ojo del Inca and Potosi
Saturday was billed as one of the long drive days, which meant an early start in the morning to leave La Paz before the traffic built up. Breakfast was the usual South American option, and we ended up leaving by 7 to our next destination of Ojo del Inca. The drive was surprising smooth although there were a few road blocks which meant we had a few off road diversions. En route we stopped for lunch in the middle nowhere and had a truck lunch which was very nice.
We arrived at Ojo del Inca at about 4. Ojo del Inca (meaning "Eye of the Inca") is an almost perfectly-circular volcanic lake in the Tarapaya Canyon. We camped by the lake in what was effectively a car park. After putting the tents and setting up all the cooking equipment, we had time to relax. I decided to go up to the top of the hill, although I made the mistake of going up in my flip flops. I basically hit my big toe on rock and gashed it open. Luckily I had my first aid kit and used it first time on the trip.
Dinner in the evening was a beef stew, and after dinner we joined with Gus and had a camp fire. It was a pretty nippy evening but a great atmosphere. It was weird not being able to drink though! We did have a few problems with these nearby Argentinians camping though who were very drunk, and came over to us a couple of times and got a bit iffy over the Falklands. They even tried to beat up one of our guides. It was all in all a good evening though.
In the morning we only had a 40 minute drive to our next stop in Potosi. Breakfast was pancakes, and prior to breakfast I went for a swim in the nearby lake which was nice and warm. We left at 9 and were in Potosi in no time. After checking into the hotel we had a free day, so I went for a walk round the town which was looking very christmassy. A lot of places were shut though as it was a Sunday and a public holiday. I did find a restaurant which was Chinese with wifi and we sat in there for a while.
Situated at over 4000m, Potosi is one of the highest in the world. It is famous for its mining heritage, and we had the chance to go inside the working mine. I didn't do this however as no one wanted to do it because they thought it was wrong to see poor people and even children in a working mine, which was a good point. I instead went to the nearby Christmas market which was lots of fun, before going out to a nearby cafe with a few others to relax. For dinner we went to this steak restaurant, and after dinner I had an early night as I wasn't feeling very well.
We arrived at Ojo del Inca at about 4. Ojo del Inca (meaning "Eye of the Inca") is an almost perfectly-circular volcanic lake in the Tarapaya Canyon. We camped by the lake in what was effectively a car park. After putting the tents and setting up all the cooking equipment, we had time to relax. I decided to go up to the top of the hill, although I made the mistake of going up in my flip flops. I basically hit my big toe on rock and gashed it open. Luckily I had my first aid kit and used it first time on the trip.
Dinner in the evening was a beef stew, and after dinner we joined with Gus and had a camp fire. It was a pretty nippy evening but a great atmosphere. It was weird not being able to drink though! We did have a few problems with these nearby Argentinians camping though who were very drunk, and came over to us a couple of times and got a bit iffy over the Falklands. They even tried to beat up one of our guides. It was all in all a good evening though.
In the morning we only had a 40 minute drive to our next stop in Potosi. Breakfast was pancakes, and prior to breakfast I went for a swim in the nearby lake which was nice and warm. We left at 9 and were in Potosi in no time. After checking into the hotel we had a free day, so I went for a walk round the town which was looking very christmassy. A lot of places were shut though as it was a Sunday and a public holiday. I did find a restaurant which was Chinese with wifi and we sat in there for a while.
Situated at over 4000m, Potosi is one of the highest in the world. It is famous for its mining heritage, and we had the chance to go inside the working mine. I didn't do this however as no one wanted to do it because they thought it was wrong to see poor people and even children in a working mine, which was a good point. I instead went to the nearby Christmas market which was lots of fun, before going out to a nearby cafe with a few others to relax. For dinner we went to this steak restaurant, and after dinner I had an early night as I wasn't feeling very well.
Sunday, 18 December 2016
La Paz
We had an early start on the Wednesday being in the middle of the island along with a sizable drive to our next stop in La Paz. After another egg based breakfast we hiked down to the jetty which was about a half hour walk down a very rocky path before boarding our boat back to Copacabana. It was a more overcast day which made it less intense sitting on the roof deck of the boat as the sun can be really intense sometimes. We arrived back to Copacabana in good time and we were on the road by 9.
Under normal circumstances the journey to La Paz is meant to take about 4 hours. We however had to take an alternative route which made it a little longer. Part of this required us to put Amber on a barge across the lake which we took this awful boat across. It was literally falling apart! We eventually got the other side of the lake and continued driving, although there were a lot of road blocks and off road sections. We didn't eventually arrived in El Alto, a suburb of La Paz that has grown to be a city in its own right. It felt as if they had dug up every road here!
We soon finally got our first view of La Paz, spectacularly located lying huddled in a canyon basin, hiding from the harsh conditions of the surrounding altiplano. La Paz a fascinating city - the old town and more expensive neighbourhoods at the bottom of the canyon in the centre, surrounded by sprawling shanty-towns which extend up the slopes of the bowl, merging into the huge Aymara district of El Alto. The city skyline is dominated by the snow-capped peaks of Mount Illimani, a staggeringly beautiful backdrop that leaves many visitors stunned when then catch their first glimpse of the city as they descend into the canyon. We stopped at the top by the cable car for pictures before dropping into the city.
We arrived in good time in the end, although we were warned of various scams before getting off the truck as the city is notorious for muggings and violent crime. I spent the afternoon relaxing, before going down the pub to watch the Saints game. Dinner in the evening was curry at a local Indian restaurant, although we have now established Bolivia cannot cope with large groups. My rice literally came out first, and then my curry last. They brought me chapattis but thought it was a samosa. And they were clueless in presenting the bill in the end.
Thursday was one of the highlights of the trip, a chance to cycle the infamous Bolivian death road. When open to traffic about 300 people died a year, but in 2006 they built a new road. The road is still open to traffic although a lot less people use it. In terms of cyclists only 18 people have died since 1998. We had an early start and drove up to 4800m where we had a safety briefing and were kitted out in warm clothing as it was freezing. We had chance to test out the bikes which had really strong brakes and the most amazing suspension ever. Prior to leaving to had a pachamama ceremony for good luck where we poured alcohol on the floor, the bike, and then took a sip. It was 96% alcohol though!
We then left, heading down a tarmac road which pretty little visibility as we were above the clouds. It was a very bendy road but we eventually made it to this tunnel and the first off road section. Despite there being massive rocks the suspension made it feel like they weren't there! After this section we stopped for a snack before getting in our support vehicle to avoid an 8km uphill section. This brought us to the start of the official death road, and we soon saw why it had its name. The road soon became a loose gravel track with a sheer drop on one side, with no barriers and the width of just one vehicle in most places. And being the downhill vehicle meant we had to go on the edge.
En route we stopped at various places for pictures, including the point on top gear where Clarkson nearly fell off. It was fun racing the guide down too, and I really got some speed up with the road being downhill, although it was very bendy in places. We stopped often though so everyone else could catch up as most people were more cautious. Lower down the road got wider and we eventually made it to the bottom, even managing to beat the guide on a sprint finish. We had a cold beer waiting for us at the bottom which was much needed.
We had the option to go ziplining at the bottom although it wasn't as big as the one I did in Baños so I decided to stay in the pub. After people came back from ziplining we went to a local animal refuge which had things like monkeys, capybara, and tortoises. We also had lunch here, all be it a very late one. With a 3 hours journey back to La Paz along the new road, we given a choice of party bus or sleepy bus. I ended up on the party bus and it got quite lively, although I got attacked by a dog when going for a wee stop. We arrived back in La Paz by about 9 and went out for a few beers in the city.
When waking up in the morning I discovered the dog attack was worse than than I thought. I think I've had the rabies vaccination but that doesn't immunise you it just buys you time. Luckily on my truck there's a doctor travelling with us and she gave me medical advice and took me to the pharmacy to get some antibiotics. If I have got rabies though I am simply going to die, but I haven't shown any initial symptoms other than aching round the bite area, so fingers crossed. I'm banned from drinking for a week now though.
I spent the afternoon exploring La Paz, visiting a few of the nearby squares as well as a couple of the markets. The old town is full of markets and winding cobbled streets full of people in traditional Aymara clothing selling anything and everything you could ever think of, including dried llama foetuses and exotic potions on sale in the witch's market! I then sat down the english pub for a full English, before relaxing in the hotel in the afternoon. Come evening we learnt from our previous mistakes and went out in small groups for dinner, where I had the fillet steak which was really nice. I then headed back to the hotel for an early night.
Under normal circumstances the journey to La Paz is meant to take about 4 hours. We however had to take an alternative route which made it a little longer. Part of this required us to put Amber on a barge across the lake which we took this awful boat across. It was literally falling apart! We eventually got the other side of the lake and continued driving, although there were a lot of road blocks and off road sections. We didn't eventually arrived in El Alto, a suburb of La Paz that has grown to be a city in its own right. It felt as if they had dug up every road here!
We soon finally got our first view of La Paz, spectacularly located lying huddled in a canyon basin, hiding from the harsh conditions of the surrounding altiplano. La Paz a fascinating city - the old town and more expensive neighbourhoods at the bottom of the canyon in the centre, surrounded by sprawling shanty-towns which extend up the slopes of the bowl, merging into the huge Aymara district of El Alto. The city skyline is dominated by the snow-capped peaks of Mount Illimani, a staggeringly beautiful backdrop that leaves many visitors stunned when then catch their first glimpse of the city as they descend into the canyon. We stopped at the top by the cable car for pictures before dropping into the city.
We arrived in good time in the end, although we were warned of various scams before getting off the truck as the city is notorious for muggings and violent crime. I spent the afternoon relaxing, before going down the pub to watch the Saints game. Dinner in the evening was curry at a local Indian restaurant, although we have now established Bolivia cannot cope with large groups. My rice literally came out first, and then my curry last. They brought me chapattis but thought it was a samosa. And they were clueless in presenting the bill in the end.
Thursday was one of the highlights of the trip, a chance to cycle the infamous Bolivian death road. When open to traffic about 300 people died a year, but in 2006 they built a new road. The road is still open to traffic although a lot less people use it. In terms of cyclists only 18 people have died since 1998. We had an early start and drove up to 4800m where we had a safety briefing and were kitted out in warm clothing as it was freezing. We had chance to test out the bikes which had really strong brakes and the most amazing suspension ever. Prior to leaving to had a pachamama ceremony for good luck where we poured alcohol on the floor, the bike, and then took a sip. It was 96% alcohol though!
We then left, heading down a tarmac road which pretty little visibility as we were above the clouds. It was a very bendy road but we eventually made it to this tunnel and the first off road section. Despite there being massive rocks the suspension made it feel like they weren't there! After this section we stopped for a snack before getting in our support vehicle to avoid an 8km uphill section. This brought us to the start of the official death road, and we soon saw why it had its name. The road soon became a loose gravel track with a sheer drop on one side, with no barriers and the width of just one vehicle in most places. And being the downhill vehicle meant we had to go on the edge.
En route we stopped at various places for pictures, including the point on top gear where Clarkson nearly fell off. It was fun racing the guide down too, and I really got some speed up with the road being downhill, although it was very bendy in places. We stopped often though so everyone else could catch up as most people were more cautious. Lower down the road got wider and we eventually made it to the bottom, even managing to beat the guide on a sprint finish. We had a cold beer waiting for us at the bottom which was much needed.
We had the option to go ziplining at the bottom although it wasn't as big as the one I did in Baños so I decided to stay in the pub. After people came back from ziplining we went to a local animal refuge which had things like monkeys, capybara, and tortoises. We also had lunch here, all be it a very late one. With a 3 hours journey back to La Paz along the new road, we given a choice of party bus or sleepy bus. I ended up on the party bus and it got quite lively, although I got attacked by a dog when going for a wee stop. We arrived back in La Paz by about 9 and went out for a few beers in the city.
When waking up in the morning I discovered the dog attack was worse than than I thought. I think I've had the rabies vaccination but that doesn't immunise you it just buys you time. Luckily on my truck there's a doctor travelling with us and she gave me medical advice and took me to the pharmacy to get some antibiotics. If I have got rabies though I am simply going to die, but I haven't shown any initial symptoms other than aching round the bite area, so fingers crossed. I'm banned from drinking for a week now though.
I spent the afternoon exploring La Paz, visiting a few of the nearby squares as well as a couple of the markets. The old town is full of markets and winding cobbled streets full of people in traditional Aymara clothing selling anything and everything you could ever think of, including dried llama foetuses and exotic potions on sale in the witch's market! I then sat down the english pub for a full English, before relaxing in the hotel in the afternoon. Come evening we learnt from our previous mistakes and went out in small groups for dinner, where I had the fillet steak which was really nice. I then headed back to the hotel for an early night.
Thursday, 15 December 2016
Lake Tititaca
Saturday was another free day in Cusco, although I just had a lie in because of the night before. I had the option to visit various museums for free with my Cusco visitors pass but I instead ended up in the Irish bar for another full English. I ended up spending most of the afternoon in there watching the Leicester game, and then the Real Madrid game. After the pub I headed back to the hotel and relaxed, before going out for a Mr soup in the evening, and then bed.
Sunday was effectively a drive day, and with a 7am start we were braced for long day. Shortly after leaving Cusco we stopped at the ruins of Tipon to see a working inca irrigation system as well as more terraces. It was an interesting tour. We then continued south to Puno, stopping en route at Pucara for lunch. We also drove through the town of Juliaca which is probably the biggest shithole I have ever seen. Brick houses without roofs, with metal poles sticking out, no tarmac road, and stray dogs everywhere.
Puno is located on the shore of Lake Titicaca in the south eastern region of Peru. The town is a melting pot of Aymara and Quechuan Indian cultures and traditional Andean customs are still strongly represented here. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, and a mythical expanse of deep blue waters dotted with islands, some of which are still home to communities who have been living in the same way for hundreds of years. Puno was effectively a stopover but we arrived in good time for me to walk down to the lake, all be it in the rain. For dinner I went to a chicken restaurant, before doing a few pubs, finishing at a Peruvian locals pub where I challenged them to pool and actually won. It was a late night.
For some reason I felt horrendous on Monday morning, although I still got up and went to the local market for breakfast instead of the hotel breakfast as I was fed up with eggs. We had a relatively short drive day, with just a notoriously bad border crossing to negotiate. Unfortunately the truck broke down due to the cooling system breaking or something. I didn't really know what was going on but they had to detach the front section from the back and do stuff underneath and we were delayed by a good hour. We eventually left and arrived at the border by lunchtime.
Leaving Peru was pretty straightforward, getting stamped out with ease, although it wasn't so easy for the truck as the people who check vehicles were on lunch. We managed to walk across minus the truck and get stamped into Bolivia easily, although we needed Gus to give us a lift to our hotel in Copacabana as Amber was stranded in Peru. It was a pretty awful security system though as we were able to take whatever we wanted off Amber and take it straight into Bolivia before customs checked the truck.
Copacabana is a picturesque small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. At over 3800m above sea level, it felt more like a beach resort than a lakeside town with the a sandy beach and hot weather. After checking in I went out into the town with a couple of others where we had pizza at some restaurant owned by Americans. It was a really good pizza although there were telling us about the lack of running water due to the drought which had affected Bolivia massively.
After lunch we went to back to the hotel, before I left to go to this English bar to get good wifi as the wifi was awful at the hotel. The wifi was also awful at the bar. I then went up the hill to get a view of the town, heading back down after a short while to watch the sunset which was spectacular. For dinner we ate a local restaurant where I had the beef lasagne, followed by chocolate moose. I then had an early night after my antics with the locals in Puno.
Tuesday was a relative lie in, leaving at 9am for a boat transfer to Isla del Sol. Isla del Sol is a serene and peaceful island set in the glittering Lake Titicaca off the shore of the Bolivian village of Copacabana. The island was famous in Inca mythology as the supposed birthplace of the sun-god Inti - a legend that is still told by many of the modern-day Aymara and Quechua peoples of the area. There are small ancient ruins dotted on the island, as well as tiny traditional villages and beautiful walking routes.
After breakfast we took the boat across stopping en route at some ruins, before continuing onto the northern tip of the island to hike across the island. Shortly after getting off the boat we climbed a small hill to these ruins where we had lunch, although we were joined by these pigs which everyone kept feeding! After visiting the ruins we headed south following a well defined path which was very up and down. The views of the lake were amazing and the walk in all was about 9km so pretty moderate. The air felt a lot thinner than usual however.
When arriving at the southern part of the island we sat in a restaurant garden to relax as a member of our group is particularly slow compared to everyone else. When they arrived a couple of hours later we checked into the hotel and watched an amazing sunset a few hours later. For dinner we went to this restaurant where I had the trout which Titicaca is famous for. The service was really slow though. I then went to the hotel for an early night.
Sunday was effectively a drive day, and with a 7am start we were braced for long day. Shortly after leaving Cusco we stopped at the ruins of Tipon to see a working inca irrigation system as well as more terraces. It was an interesting tour. We then continued south to Puno, stopping en route at Pucara for lunch. We also drove through the town of Juliaca which is probably the biggest shithole I have ever seen. Brick houses without roofs, with metal poles sticking out, no tarmac road, and stray dogs everywhere.
Puno is located on the shore of Lake Titicaca in the south eastern region of Peru. The town is a melting pot of Aymara and Quechuan Indian cultures and traditional Andean customs are still strongly represented here. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, and a mythical expanse of deep blue waters dotted with islands, some of which are still home to communities who have been living in the same way for hundreds of years. Puno was effectively a stopover but we arrived in good time for me to walk down to the lake, all be it in the rain. For dinner I went to a chicken restaurant, before doing a few pubs, finishing at a Peruvian locals pub where I challenged them to pool and actually won. It was a late night.
For some reason I felt horrendous on Monday morning, although I still got up and went to the local market for breakfast instead of the hotel breakfast as I was fed up with eggs. We had a relatively short drive day, with just a notoriously bad border crossing to negotiate. Unfortunately the truck broke down due to the cooling system breaking or something. I didn't really know what was going on but they had to detach the front section from the back and do stuff underneath and we were delayed by a good hour. We eventually left and arrived at the border by lunchtime.
Leaving Peru was pretty straightforward, getting stamped out with ease, although it wasn't so easy for the truck as the people who check vehicles were on lunch. We managed to walk across minus the truck and get stamped into Bolivia easily, although we needed Gus to give us a lift to our hotel in Copacabana as Amber was stranded in Peru. It was a pretty awful security system though as we were able to take whatever we wanted off Amber and take it straight into Bolivia before customs checked the truck.
Copacabana is a picturesque small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. At over 3800m above sea level, it felt more like a beach resort than a lakeside town with the a sandy beach and hot weather. After checking in I went out into the town with a couple of others where we had pizza at some restaurant owned by Americans. It was a really good pizza although there were telling us about the lack of running water due to the drought which had affected Bolivia massively.
After lunch we went to back to the hotel, before I left to go to this English bar to get good wifi as the wifi was awful at the hotel. The wifi was also awful at the bar. I then went up the hill to get a view of the town, heading back down after a short while to watch the sunset which was spectacular. For dinner we ate a local restaurant where I had the beef lasagne, followed by chocolate moose. I then had an early night after my antics with the locals in Puno.
Tuesday was a relative lie in, leaving at 9am for a boat transfer to Isla del Sol. Isla del Sol is a serene and peaceful island set in the glittering Lake Titicaca off the shore of the Bolivian village of Copacabana. The island was famous in Inca mythology as the supposed birthplace of the sun-god Inti - a legend that is still told by many of the modern-day Aymara and Quechua peoples of the area. There are small ancient ruins dotted on the island, as well as tiny traditional villages and beautiful walking routes.
After breakfast we took the boat across stopping en route at some ruins, before continuing onto the northern tip of the island to hike across the island. Shortly after getting off the boat we climbed a small hill to these ruins where we had lunch, although we were joined by these pigs which everyone kept feeding! After visiting the ruins we headed south following a well defined path which was very up and down. The views of the lake were amazing and the walk in all was about 9km so pretty moderate. The air felt a lot thinner than usual however.
When arriving at the southern part of the island we sat in a restaurant garden to relax as a member of our group is particularly slow compared to everyone else. When they arrived a couple of hours later we checked into the hotel and watched an amazing sunset a few hours later. For dinner we went to this restaurant where I had the trout which Titicaca is famous for. The service was really slow though. I then went to the hotel for an early night.
Saturday, 10 December 2016
Inca Trail and Machu Picchu
Monday was the start of my journey to visit the famous inca ruins of Machu Picchu. To get there requires 4 days of hiking, although before the hiking we had a day visiting a few archaeological sites. After breakfast we met the group for a 7am departure. There were 3 different packages on offer to visit Machu Picchu, the classic trek, the wild andes trek, or a train based package to avoid the trekking. I'm doing the classic trek package which effectively is the most popular route to hike and also the only trek which walks directly into Machu Picchu. The only downside is that it is very touristy and apparently has a lot of steps!
First stop of the day was the ancient ruins of Sacsayhuaman which were some ruins of these old temples. We got a good viewpoint up here to see the Cusco skyline and there were also a lot of Llamas. It was amazing how the Incas constructed this site. We then drove into the Sacred Valley, stopping en route for pictures. We then soon arrived the old market town of Pisac, heading up to the nearby ruins to learn about the Incas farming techniques amongst other things. It was a very picturesque area. After looking round we headed into Pisac to look round the market which sold local handicrafts, before continuing on for lunch at this buffet restaurant which had a massive array of food!
After lunch we continued onto the town of Ollantaytambo to explore another archaeological site which once again showcased the Incas farming techniques as well more ruins. There was even a man's face carved on the mountain side. We arrived at our hotel for the night by 4 where I just relaxed as they had wifi. I met a couple of others for dinner at 7, although we had a massive thunderstorm which meant we delayed going out for a bit as the rain was lashing it down! I eventually got chicken tacos for dinner, and after dinner went back to the hotel where I had an early night.
As a group we opted for a later start in the morning, leaving at 9 with the theory being if we left later we would allow all the other groups a head start. 500 people a day can walk the Inca trail, about 200 tourists and 300 guides/porters. Our group has 17 people (7 Amber, 10 Gus), 3 guides and a lot of porters. After breakfast, we caught the bus to Piscaycuscho and the start of the Classic Inca Trek - the railroad KM82 marker (at 2,700m altitude). Breakfast was basically fruits and eggs, and the road to the start was very narrow and bumpy which made it both uncomfortable and difficult to pass other vehicles.
When arriving at the start we unloaded and our porters packed all our kit, food, and tents amongst other things to carry. The porters were absolute machines and carried about 25kg each, some even wearing sandals whilst we just carried a day pack! To put into context the classic inca trail is about the length of a marathon. It's taking us 4 days to walk it. The record is 3 hours 45 minutes! After going through passport control and showing our permits, we crossed the bridge over the River Urubamba and followed a trail along the left-hand shore of the river, enjoying stunning views of the snow-capped Mount Veronica (5,830m), eventually arriving at the Incan archaeological remains at Llactapata.
We stopped in this village for lunch where our porters who had gone ahead had made up soup, followed by sandwiches and this potato thing. We then continued through lush farmland and woodland, gradually climbing to our first campsite at Wayllabamba at about 3000m. We were permitted to go our own pace after lunch as it had started spitting, so I went on ahead with the porters and arrived at camp before it rained. I arrived about half 4, with most the others arriving just after 5, and after relaxing for a while we went into the dining tent for biscuits and drinks to keep warm as it was quite cold. Dinner was at about 8 where we had soup, followed by chicken, and then some purple corn based dessert which was like some warm syrup. It was a nice evening including the guitar being dished out, although we did all have an early night as it was raining quite badly.
The second day of the trek was described to us as the toughest day as it basically involved 1200m of height gain. We were woken up at half 5 with coco leaves and hot water, and after waking up we had breakfast which was bacon, eggs, and cereals. We unfortunately lost 2 people though in the morning due to a chest infection. We left our campsite at about 7 and basically started climbing from the off, soon stopping at a checkpoint where they had to check our permits to continue. We ascended a long steep path through Andean cloud forest and highland puna to reach the highest point of our trek, Warmiwañusca (meaning "Dead Woman's Pass") at a height of 4,200m. During the ascent, we frequently stopped to learn about the wide variety of plant, flower and bird species around us.
On reaching the pass, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the Vilcanota and Vilcabamba mountain ranges. The cloud however rapidly came in and made visibility poor and it soon started raining. Luckily as I was first one at the top I got some good pictures before I really set in. From the top we descended into the Pacaymayo Valley (3,650m altitude) and to our
second campsite. As it was raining we were allowed to go our own pace so I tanked it down despite the slippery cobbled path and arrived at camp by half 1, with the rest of the group coming in around 2 to half 2ish.
Lunch was at camp which was a soup again, followed by pasta, cauliflower cheese, and a salad. We were then given the afternoon as free time although we were in the middle of nowhere, with the only optional activity a hike, which wasn't very tempting with the heavy rain. I instead just spent the afternoon relaxing in my tent. Dinner was again soup, followed by a beef stew, and then chocolate pudding. We then played cards for a bit before having an early night ready for the longest day in terms of distance the following day.
Thursday was a 5am wake up call with a 6.30am departure. Breakfast was pancakes and after leaving camp we were immediately climbing up what was quite a steep hill. The previous evening the rain had stopped, although there was heavy rain in the night. The weather in the morning was amazing though, blue skies and sun. About half way up the hill we stopped at Runkurakay to see the ruins, accompanied by pretty spectacular views. This didn't last long however as the clouds quickly decended in and it started raining, creating poor visibility. We continued to top of the hill at about 3900m.
The rain calmed down a bit at this point although we were still in the clouds which made the air very moist. Eversince going over the dead woman's pass we have followed an ancient stone path built by the Incas, and we decended down a very steep and slippery set of this steps which needed a lot of respect! We soon arrived at the ruins of Sayacmarca where we stopped to learn about the history, as well as getting a brief break from the cloud and a stunning view of the valley before it came back again. Soon after we arrived for lunch which was soup, followed by chicken fried rice, beetroot salad, and vegetables. Luckily it stopped raining prior to lunch.
After lunch it started raining again and the visibility was nothing, although we continued along the cobbled path, passing through Inca tunnels towards our next inca site at Phuyupatamarca. We stayed a short while here before heading down an initially very steep section, which soon came a more gradual decline towards our next campsite. When arriving at Wiñay Wayna at 2650m for a final night, the rain typically stopped although the clouds were still obscuring what were meant to be spectacular panoramic views.
By dinner it had stopped raining, and prior to this we had some pisco based drink with popcorn and cheese things. Dinner was soup, followed by pasta, and after dinner we had our farewall speeches by our guides who have been really good. We also had a short ceremony with our porters who have been amazing. They have literally carried our tents, overnight bags, food, etc. They have cooked for us, tidied up for us, set up camp for us. And each morning after leaving camp they would break camp, then shortly after run past us with their heavy packs, some wearing sandals, have a hot lunch waiting us further on, then tidy up again and run past us again where we would arrive in camp already set up. They were literally absolute machines. Apparently they race each other to the campsites! Afterwards I had an early night ready for the last days hiking.
On the last day we had a 3am wake up call, with a 4am departure. Breakfast was just toast and we left campsite ready to trek to our final destination in the the dark. When we arrived at the final checkpoint we had to wait until half 5, where a large queue of people formed before they finally opened the gates. Leaving Wiñay Wayna, we descended gradually further through the highland
jungle towards Intupunku (the "Sun Gate") which leads into Machu Picchu. Prior to this is started raining but luckily it cleared and we got a breathtaking view as we climbed up through the sun gate and got our first view of the ruins.
After a while at the sun gate we headed down into Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is a world-famous 15th-Century Inca citadel perched 2,430m
above sea level on a mountain ridge above the Sacred Valley. The ruins weren't discovered until 1911, after being undiscovered during the Spanish conquest, and have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983 and was voted on of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007. We were given a short amount of time to get some pictures before leaving the site as we had to go through passport control and get stamped in.
When getting stamped in we had a guided tour of the site which was very interesting, before getting some free time. I went for an additional hike to this inca bridge, as well as heading up to get some more photos. By about 1 we headed down to Aguas Calientes where we all met in a restaurant for lunch before taking the train back to Ollantaytambo for a connecting bus to Cuzco. After showering I went out and had McDonald's as we got back quite late, meeting some others in the english pub after. We were challenged to stay up 24 hours and I managed that, going to the club after which was fun!
First stop of the day was the ancient ruins of Sacsayhuaman which were some ruins of these old temples. We got a good viewpoint up here to see the Cusco skyline and there were also a lot of Llamas. It was amazing how the Incas constructed this site. We then drove into the Sacred Valley, stopping en route for pictures. We then soon arrived the old market town of Pisac, heading up to the nearby ruins to learn about the Incas farming techniques amongst other things. It was a very picturesque area. After looking round we headed into Pisac to look round the market which sold local handicrafts, before continuing on for lunch at this buffet restaurant which had a massive array of food!
After lunch we continued onto the town of Ollantaytambo to explore another archaeological site which once again showcased the Incas farming techniques as well more ruins. There was even a man's face carved on the mountain side. We arrived at our hotel for the night by 4 where I just relaxed as they had wifi. I met a couple of others for dinner at 7, although we had a massive thunderstorm which meant we delayed going out for a bit as the rain was lashing it down! I eventually got chicken tacos for dinner, and after dinner went back to the hotel where I had an early night.
As a group we opted for a later start in the morning, leaving at 9 with the theory being if we left later we would allow all the other groups a head start. 500 people a day can walk the Inca trail, about 200 tourists and 300 guides/porters. Our group has 17 people (7 Amber, 10 Gus), 3 guides and a lot of porters. After breakfast, we caught the bus to Piscaycuscho and the start of the Classic Inca Trek - the railroad KM82 marker (at 2,700m altitude). Breakfast was basically fruits and eggs, and the road to the start was very narrow and bumpy which made it both uncomfortable and difficult to pass other vehicles.
When arriving at the start we unloaded and our porters packed all our kit, food, and tents amongst other things to carry. The porters were absolute machines and carried about 25kg each, some even wearing sandals whilst we just carried a day pack! To put into context the classic inca trail is about the length of a marathon. It's taking us 4 days to walk it. The record is 3 hours 45 minutes! After going through passport control and showing our permits, we crossed the bridge over the River Urubamba and followed a trail along the left-hand shore of the river, enjoying stunning views of the snow-capped Mount Veronica (5,830m), eventually arriving at the Incan archaeological remains at Llactapata.
We stopped in this village for lunch where our porters who had gone ahead had made up soup, followed by sandwiches and this potato thing. We then continued through lush farmland and woodland, gradually climbing to our first campsite at Wayllabamba at about 3000m. We were permitted to go our own pace after lunch as it had started spitting, so I went on ahead with the porters and arrived at camp before it rained. I arrived about half 4, with most the others arriving just after 5, and after relaxing for a while we went into the dining tent for biscuits and drinks to keep warm as it was quite cold. Dinner was at about 8 where we had soup, followed by chicken, and then some purple corn based dessert which was like some warm syrup. It was a nice evening including the guitar being dished out, although we did all have an early night as it was raining quite badly.
The second day of the trek was described to us as the toughest day as it basically involved 1200m of height gain. We were woken up at half 5 with coco leaves and hot water, and after waking up we had breakfast which was bacon, eggs, and cereals. We unfortunately lost 2 people though in the morning due to a chest infection. We left our campsite at about 7 and basically started climbing from the off, soon stopping at a checkpoint where they had to check our permits to continue. We ascended a long steep path through Andean cloud forest and highland puna to reach the highest point of our trek, Warmiwañusca (meaning "Dead Woman's Pass") at a height of 4,200m. During the ascent, we frequently stopped to learn about the wide variety of plant, flower and bird species around us.
On reaching the pass, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the Vilcanota and Vilcabamba mountain ranges. The cloud however rapidly came in and made visibility poor and it soon started raining. Luckily as I was first one at the top I got some good pictures before I really set in. From the top we descended into the Pacaymayo Valley (3,650m altitude) and to our
second campsite. As it was raining we were allowed to go our own pace so I tanked it down despite the slippery cobbled path and arrived at camp by half 1, with the rest of the group coming in around 2 to half 2ish.
Lunch was at camp which was a soup again, followed by pasta, cauliflower cheese, and a salad. We were then given the afternoon as free time although we were in the middle of nowhere, with the only optional activity a hike, which wasn't very tempting with the heavy rain. I instead just spent the afternoon relaxing in my tent. Dinner was again soup, followed by a beef stew, and then chocolate pudding. We then played cards for a bit before having an early night ready for the longest day in terms of distance the following day.
Thursday was a 5am wake up call with a 6.30am departure. Breakfast was pancakes and after leaving camp we were immediately climbing up what was quite a steep hill. The previous evening the rain had stopped, although there was heavy rain in the night. The weather in the morning was amazing though, blue skies and sun. About half way up the hill we stopped at Runkurakay to see the ruins, accompanied by pretty spectacular views. This didn't last long however as the clouds quickly decended in and it started raining, creating poor visibility. We continued to top of the hill at about 3900m.
The rain calmed down a bit at this point although we were still in the clouds which made the air very moist. Eversince going over the dead woman's pass we have followed an ancient stone path built by the Incas, and we decended down a very steep and slippery set of this steps which needed a lot of respect! We soon arrived at the ruins of Sayacmarca where we stopped to learn about the history, as well as getting a brief break from the cloud and a stunning view of the valley before it came back again. Soon after we arrived for lunch which was soup, followed by chicken fried rice, beetroot salad, and vegetables. Luckily it stopped raining prior to lunch.
After lunch it started raining again and the visibility was nothing, although we continued along the cobbled path, passing through Inca tunnels towards our next inca site at Phuyupatamarca. We stayed a short while here before heading down an initially very steep section, which soon came a more gradual decline towards our next campsite. When arriving at Wiñay Wayna at 2650m for a final night, the rain typically stopped although the clouds were still obscuring what were meant to be spectacular panoramic views.
By dinner it had stopped raining, and prior to this we had some pisco based drink with popcorn and cheese things. Dinner was soup, followed by pasta, and after dinner we had our farewall speeches by our guides who have been really good. We also had a short ceremony with our porters who have been amazing. They have literally carried our tents, overnight bags, food, etc. They have cooked for us, tidied up for us, set up camp for us. And each morning after leaving camp they would break camp, then shortly after run past us with their heavy packs, some wearing sandals, have a hot lunch waiting us further on, then tidy up again and run past us again where we would arrive in camp already set up. They were literally absolute machines. Apparently they race each other to the campsites! Afterwards I had an early night ready for the last days hiking.
On the last day we had a 3am wake up call, with a 4am departure. Breakfast was just toast and we left campsite ready to trek to our final destination in the the dark. When we arrived at the final checkpoint we had to wait until half 5, where a large queue of people formed before they finally opened the gates. Leaving Wiñay Wayna, we descended gradually further through the highland
jungle towards Intupunku (the "Sun Gate") which leads into Machu Picchu. Prior to this is started raining but luckily it cleared and we got a breathtaking view as we climbed up through the sun gate and got our first view of the ruins.
After a while at the sun gate we headed down into Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is a world-famous 15th-Century Inca citadel perched 2,430m
above sea level on a mountain ridge above the Sacred Valley. The ruins weren't discovered until 1911, after being undiscovered during the Spanish conquest, and have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983 and was voted on of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007. We were given a short amount of time to get some pictures before leaving the site as we had to go through passport control and get stamped in.
When getting stamped in we had a guided tour of the site which was very interesting, before getting some free time. I went for an additional hike to this inca bridge, as well as heading up to get some more photos. By about 1 we headed down to Aguas Calientes where we all met in a restaurant for lunch before taking the train back to Ollantaytambo for a connecting bus to Cuzco. After showering I went out and had McDonald's as we got back quite late, meeting some others in the english pub after. We were challenged to stay up 24 hours and I managed that, going to the club after which was fun!
Monday, 5 December 2016
Raqchi and Cusco
Friday was meant to be a drive day to the remote village of Raqchi, arriving for dinner and activities in the evening, and then a guided tour of the ruins the next day. We instead decided to arrive early and do the ruins on the Friday so we could leave Raqchi early and get to Cusco for Saturday lunchtime. This meant we had a 5am start to get to Raqchi for lunchtime. With limited stops we drove primarily on off road mountain roads, with the occasional bush wee, arriving at Raqchi for a late lunch.
Raqchi is a small village situated 100kms southeast of Cuzco, famous as being the site of the only surviving temple of the ancient Inca creator
deity Wiracocha. It is a special opportunity for me as being a dragoman sponsored community we got the opportunity to have a local homestay. We stayed here as guests of the local families in their traditional houses. When arriving we were split into groups of 4, so I with the only 4 surviving single guys on the truck and we were giving mothers and father's to look after us while staying. When arriving at our house which had a small courtyard and basic facilities, and our parents gave us lunch which was a 4 course meal! A bean course, soup, alpaca, and fruits! It was very generous portions.
After lunch we met at the village square at 3 where we looked round the market selling local handicrafts, before setting off for a tour of the nearby ruins, the Temple of Wiracocha. These inca ruins included the temple itself and various aquaduct and storage systems which we learnt in detail about. After the tour some of us went up the nearby hill to this viewpoint where we watched the sunset and got lots of funny pictures! We then met back by the square and has a few drinks before heading home to our houses for dinner. Dinner in the evening was another soup, followed by spaghetti, and then this fruit thing.
After dinner we had the opportunity to have a Quechua religious ceremony. What I didn't realise was this ceremony was taking place in my house, and everyone else from all over the village decended to our courtyard! After settling down we all collected some coco leaves and gave our respects to the pachamama, and after everyone had paid their respects we celebrated by hugging everyone. We then had a fire with live music from the locals and danced with local villagers. After a while the ceremony ended, although a few of us headed to the village square to continue the party! It was quite a late night.
Come morning we were told breakfast was at 7. What instead happened was some booming loudspeaker saying stuff at 5am, with music played every so often for like half hour, so I didn't get much sleep. Breakfast was in fact at 7, but apparently this is what the villagers have every morning to wake up. Breakfast was potatoes, eggs, corn cakes, fruits and cereal. Prior to breakfast as I was up so early I went for a walk round the village, and everyone wanted pictures with me!
After breakfast we had a pottery making demonstration which was very interesting. The villagers then brought out loads of stuff they made to try and sell it to us. I bought a bracelet to add to the collection. We then got on the truck ready for the short drive to Cusco, the former Inca capital. En route we stopped at the old gateway to Cusco used by Incas, and also this viewpoint at the top of the hill which had like a small version of Christ the redeemer at the top. It was a nice view of the city. We then checked into our hotel arriving by lunchtime.
I did lunch on my own after checking in because I really wanted a full English breakfast and the nearby irish which claims to be the highest Irish owned irush pub in the world sold them. It was a really good meal with a very western atmosphere. I then headed back to the hotel where I spent the afternoon relaxing before meeting everyone for dinner in the evening. For dinner we headed out to this gothic place where I had the chicken. It was quite disappointing though. We then went to this English bar which was very English with pool tables and dart boards, and a good range of ale. They even had the Saints Palace full replay on. We then went to a local club and it was a great night!
In the morning I felt horrendous so after breakfast spent the morning relaxing, before heading out into Cusco at lunchtime. For lunch I went to this soup restaurant which was very filling. I then did a bit of shopping just get a couple of things for the trek. It's forecast to rain during the trek which isn't great. After shopping I went back to the hotel and relaxed, before having a meeting about the trek in the evening. For dinner I went to this burger restaurant people were raving about and it was really good, massive portions. We then just headed back to the hotel for an early night.
Raqchi is a small village situated 100kms southeast of Cuzco, famous as being the site of the only surviving temple of the ancient Inca creator
deity Wiracocha. It is a special opportunity for me as being a dragoman sponsored community we got the opportunity to have a local homestay. We stayed here as guests of the local families in their traditional houses. When arriving we were split into groups of 4, so I with the only 4 surviving single guys on the truck and we were giving mothers and father's to look after us while staying. When arriving at our house which had a small courtyard and basic facilities, and our parents gave us lunch which was a 4 course meal! A bean course, soup, alpaca, and fruits! It was very generous portions.
After lunch we met at the village square at 3 where we looked round the market selling local handicrafts, before setting off for a tour of the nearby ruins, the Temple of Wiracocha. These inca ruins included the temple itself and various aquaduct and storage systems which we learnt in detail about. After the tour some of us went up the nearby hill to this viewpoint where we watched the sunset and got lots of funny pictures! We then met back by the square and has a few drinks before heading home to our houses for dinner. Dinner in the evening was another soup, followed by spaghetti, and then this fruit thing.
After dinner we had the opportunity to have a Quechua religious ceremony. What I didn't realise was this ceremony was taking place in my house, and everyone else from all over the village decended to our courtyard! After settling down we all collected some coco leaves and gave our respects to the pachamama, and after everyone had paid their respects we celebrated by hugging everyone. We then had a fire with live music from the locals and danced with local villagers. After a while the ceremony ended, although a few of us headed to the village square to continue the party! It was quite a late night.
Come morning we were told breakfast was at 7. What instead happened was some booming loudspeaker saying stuff at 5am, with music played every so often for like half hour, so I didn't get much sleep. Breakfast was in fact at 7, but apparently this is what the villagers have every morning to wake up. Breakfast was potatoes, eggs, corn cakes, fruits and cereal. Prior to breakfast as I was up so early I went for a walk round the village, and everyone wanted pictures with me!
After breakfast we had a pottery making demonstration which was very interesting. The villagers then brought out loads of stuff they made to try and sell it to us. I bought a bracelet to add to the collection. We then got on the truck ready for the short drive to Cusco, the former Inca capital. En route we stopped at the old gateway to Cusco used by Incas, and also this viewpoint at the top of the hill which had like a small version of Christ the redeemer at the top. It was a nice view of the city. We then checked into our hotel arriving by lunchtime.
I did lunch on my own after checking in because I really wanted a full English breakfast and the nearby irish which claims to be the highest Irish owned irush pub in the world sold them. It was a really good meal with a very western atmosphere. I then headed back to the hotel where I spent the afternoon relaxing before meeting everyone for dinner in the evening. For dinner we headed out to this gothic place where I had the chicken. It was quite disappointing though. We then went to this English bar which was very English with pool tables and dart boards, and a good range of ale. They even had the Saints Palace full replay on. We then went to a local club and it was a great night!
In the morning I felt horrendous so after breakfast spent the morning relaxing, before heading out into Cusco at lunchtime. For lunch I went to this soup restaurant which was very filling. I then did a bit of shopping just get a couple of things for the trek. It's forecast to rain during the trek which isn't great. After shopping I went back to the hotel and relaxed, before having a meeting about the trek in the evening. For dinner I went to this burger restaurant people were raving about and it was really good, massive portions. We then just headed back to the hotel for an early night.
Friday, 2 December 2016
Chivay
We left Arequipa at about 7 ready for our short drive to the next destination of Chivay. Breakfast was once again buffet style and we left promptly heading up into the mountains. En route we stopped to get some pictures of some wild llamas and these closely related llama things which I can't remember the name of. Apparently they were a protected species. The pass we drove over went over 4900m and when we made it to the top we got out for some pictures. It was very nippy up top though and it even tried to snow! We even stopped off at this cafe prior which sold various different coco teas and handicrafts.
We arrived into Chivay by lunchtime and after unpacking we were effectively given the afternoon as free time. There was the option to go to the nearby hot springs, although I instead went solo and went to what is debatably the highest Irish Bar in the world. La Paz and Cusco also claim this title as the one in Chivay is not Irish owned, but Chivay is the highest. I managed to watch the football here and see Southampton reach the semi finals of the cup by beating Arsenal, even if the commentary was in Spanish and I was the only person in the pub. It's always cool when hear the commentator just gooooooooaaaaalllll when they score.
After the pub I went back to the hotel and relaxed, despite the wifi being awful. Instead of going out for dinner in the evening, Chivay has a sizable street food area so I opted for the local cuisines instead of eating out. It was very nice. I then just spent the evening relaxing, although with a 5am start the next morning I typically couldn't sleep until like midnight.
The rural town of Chivay is the gateway to the magnificent Colca Canyon. Boasting some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Peru, the
Colca Canyon is famous as being one of the best places in the world to spot the mighty Andean Condor, one of the largest birds in the world with a wingspan of around 2.5m. We left to try and see this bird at 6am after an early breakfast, stopping en route at various viewpoints to see the canyon. The drive was pretty special, and it was nice to once again have the roof seats open for even better views of the canyon.
We eventually stopped to go for a short walk along the edge of the canyon and try and spot the condor. The walk was pretty spectacular in scenery but we didn't see the bird. We did finish at these viewpoints though to try and spot the bird from there. It took a while but we were eventually treated to the sight of one, all be it from quite a distance. We left by 11 and started driving back towards Chivay, stopping at a few more viewpoints on the way back, and also a small village where we saw some llamas and eagles on display.
When back in Chivay we went to buffet restaurant which was nice and serving 3 courses including a really nice strawberry cheesecake. The afternoon was then free time to relax, so I did just that. We did however have an earthquake. I was just sitting there in a chair and it started shaking along with lights, only for a few seconds but it stopped me from what I was doing. It felt really weird. Afterwards I went to watch the sunset and the nearby volcano which had been spewing ash since we arrived was billowing a lot more ash out than normal. The sunset was spectacular though!
After the events and finding out it was a 6.3 magnitude earthquake with the epicentre about 200km away, I went out for dinner at this local Andean restaurant where I had the alpaca which was very good. It was literally a whole family plus me! I then had an early night with another 5am start planned for the following morning.
We arrived into Chivay by lunchtime and after unpacking we were effectively given the afternoon as free time. There was the option to go to the nearby hot springs, although I instead went solo and went to what is debatably the highest Irish Bar in the world. La Paz and Cusco also claim this title as the one in Chivay is not Irish owned, but Chivay is the highest. I managed to watch the football here and see Southampton reach the semi finals of the cup by beating Arsenal, even if the commentary was in Spanish and I was the only person in the pub. It's always cool when hear the commentator just gooooooooaaaaalllll when they score.
After the pub I went back to the hotel and relaxed, despite the wifi being awful. Instead of going out for dinner in the evening, Chivay has a sizable street food area so I opted for the local cuisines instead of eating out. It was very nice. I then just spent the evening relaxing, although with a 5am start the next morning I typically couldn't sleep until like midnight.
The rural town of Chivay is the gateway to the magnificent Colca Canyon. Boasting some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Peru, the
Colca Canyon is famous as being one of the best places in the world to spot the mighty Andean Condor, one of the largest birds in the world with a wingspan of around 2.5m. We left to try and see this bird at 6am after an early breakfast, stopping en route at various viewpoints to see the canyon. The drive was pretty special, and it was nice to once again have the roof seats open for even better views of the canyon.
We eventually stopped to go for a short walk along the edge of the canyon and try and spot the condor. The walk was pretty spectacular in scenery but we didn't see the bird. We did finish at these viewpoints though to try and spot the bird from there. It took a while but we were eventually treated to the sight of one, all be it from quite a distance. We left by 11 and started driving back towards Chivay, stopping at a few more viewpoints on the way back, and also a small village where we saw some llamas and eagles on display.
When back in Chivay we went to buffet restaurant which was nice and serving 3 courses including a really nice strawberry cheesecake. The afternoon was then free time to relax, so I did just that. We did however have an earthquake. I was just sitting there in a chair and it started shaking along with lights, only for a few seconds but it stopped me from what I was doing. It felt really weird. Afterwards I went to watch the sunset and the nearby volcano which had been spewing ash since we arrived was billowing a lot more ash out than normal. The sunset was spectacular though!
After the events and finding out it was a 6.3 magnitude earthquake with the epicentre about 200km away, I went out for dinner at this local Andean restaurant where I had the alpaca which was very good. It was literally a whole family plus me! I then had an early night with another 5am start planned for the following morning.
Thursday, 1 December 2016
Arequipa
We had a relatively early start leaving the beach on the Monday morning, but despite this I woke up at like 5am for some reason. This gave me the opportunity for one last run before going back just into altitude, and a swim in the sizable pool before leaving for our next stop in Arequipa. The drive was pretty smooth following the coast all the way up to lunchtime where we stopped on the sandy beach to say goodbye to the sea for quite a while.
After lunch we began to climb gradually and arrived in Arequipa before dark. After settling in the hotel which was an impressive old colonial building with massive rooms, we went out for dinner. My room had a grand fireplace and high ceiling! For dinner we went to this restaurant famous for serving alpaca meat. I went to the trio of meats however which included beef, pork, and alpaca, accompanied by an andean potatoes. It was very nice. After dinner quite a few people went out but I was completely exhausted so went back to the hotel for an early night.
Come morning we had a free day to explore Arequipa. Situated on the Peruvian altiplano, Arequipa is the second largest city in the country. Set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-covered volcano El Misti, salt lakes, thermal springs and high-altitude deserts, the landscape of the area is truly unique. The city itself is very beautiful, full of stunning colonial buildings built out of the soft white volcanic rock that is found in the area. After breakfast which included eggs and even crisps in buffet form, I headed out to explore the city.
I walked round the old town to start with and the buildings were all very pretty, soon ending up at the main square which included an impressive Christmas tree. I then headed to the river and headed up to the nearby area Yungahura to visit a viewpoint to see the cities skyline. I then went for lunch at a local supermarket cafe as I needed to buy a few things, before heading back into the old town to further explore the cobbled streets.
I then visited Museo Santuarios Andinos to visit Juanita. Sometimes known as the "Ice Maiden", Juanita is the mummy of a young Inca girl aged about 11-14 at the time of her death in approximately 1450 CE - she was discovered near to the summit of Mount Ampato in 1995 by two climbers, her body frozen and well-preserved in the low temperatures and high altitude. Despite cameras not being permitted it was interesting learning about this incredible find and other Inca artefacts found on the mountain. She died a brutal death but was a sacrifice to the gods and her body still has skin, blood and organs which is quite remarkable after such a long time!
After the museum I relaxed back at the hotel before heading back to the old square for a few beers while it started to get dark. I then headed to this British pub which served some proper beer and proper English classic food. It was nice having a few pints here with a British atmosphere, although I did accidentally stay until close!
After lunch we began to climb gradually and arrived in Arequipa before dark. After settling in the hotel which was an impressive old colonial building with massive rooms, we went out for dinner. My room had a grand fireplace and high ceiling! For dinner we went to this restaurant famous for serving alpaca meat. I went to the trio of meats however which included beef, pork, and alpaca, accompanied by an andean potatoes. It was very nice. After dinner quite a few people went out but I was completely exhausted so went back to the hotel for an early night.
Come morning we had a free day to explore Arequipa. Situated on the Peruvian altiplano, Arequipa is the second largest city in the country. Set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-covered volcano El Misti, salt lakes, thermal springs and high-altitude deserts, the landscape of the area is truly unique. The city itself is very beautiful, full of stunning colonial buildings built out of the soft white volcanic rock that is found in the area. After breakfast which included eggs and even crisps in buffet form, I headed out to explore the city.
I walked round the old town to start with and the buildings were all very pretty, soon ending up at the main square which included an impressive Christmas tree. I then headed to the river and headed up to the nearby area Yungahura to visit a viewpoint to see the cities skyline. I then went for lunch at a local supermarket cafe as I needed to buy a few things, before heading back into the old town to further explore the cobbled streets.
I then visited Museo Santuarios Andinos to visit Juanita. Sometimes known as the "Ice Maiden", Juanita is the mummy of a young Inca girl aged about 11-14 at the time of her death in approximately 1450 CE - she was discovered near to the summit of Mount Ampato in 1995 by two climbers, her body frozen and well-preserved in the low temperatures and high altitude. Despite cameras not being permitted it was interesting learning about this incredible find and other Inca artefacts found on the mountain. She died a brutal death but was a sacrifice to the gods and her body still has skin, blood and organs which is quite remarkable after such a long time!
After the museum I relaxed back at the hotel before heading back to the old square for a few beers while it started to get dark. I then headed to this British pub which served some proper beer and proper English classic food. It was nice having a few pints here with a British atmosphere, although I did accidentally stay until close!
Tuesday, 29 November 2016
Huacachina and Nazca
Friday was an incredibly early start, leaving at 5am to try and avoid the awfully busy roads of Lima. We also had the chance to meet the 5 new people on the truck who had replaced the 7 who have left. They all seem like very nice people and are all staying to Rio. From Lima we are also parrelling with a second truck who we are doing some things with and some things without. We managed to leave Lima with ease and we were soon on clear tarmac roads which was nice.
First stop of the day was the Ballestas Islands which are a series of rock formations in the turbulent waters of the Pacific just off the coast of Paracas. Sometimes referred to as the "poor man's Galapagos", the islands have an abundance of wildlife, including Humboldt penguins, Blackish oystercatchers, cormorants and Peruvian boobies living alongside vast colonies of sealions, all noisily crowding the Ballestas coastline and jostling for space. It was here we went for a boat trip around the islands to see this wildlife and we weren't disappointed seeing an array of wildlife.
After the boat trip we went to this restaurant for lunch which was predominantly seafood. I had the cerviche which was effectively raw fish. The portion was massive though in terms of how much raw fish I could enjoy in one sitting. After lunch we continued our drive onto Huacachina, which is a sparkling oasis nestled in the deserts near Ica in northern Peru, an area that is more reminiscent of the Sahara than South America! This picturesque lagoon is surrounded by palm trees and towering sand dunes and creates a tranquil oasis in the dusty coastal desert. The small town here has become a popular destination for travellers due to its incredible sand boarding and dune buggying opportunities. We arrived here in good time for a afternoon and night of activities.
After loading an overnight bag on this jeep, we got into these dune buggies and drove out into the desert where we drove over these dunes at some speed. It was a great thrill. We eventually at the top of this massive dune to go sandboarding down it face first which was hilarious. We stopped at 4 different locations to do this and I did really well on 3 of them but lost control on the last one and ended up with a mouthful of sand. This included a lot of dune buggying action inbetween.
It eventually started getting late so we went to the top of another dune to watch the sunset which was spectacular. We then headed to our camp for the night, which was basically this crater. This was good as it kept us out the wind which carried a lot of sand in it. We relaxed here and had this amazing bbq and a bottomless glass of Pisco which was very drinkable. It was nice to bond with the new people here and after the bbq we had a campfire and stayed up late into the night. We eventually went to our bed which was basically the desert floor. The sand went everywhere though but it was lots of fun!
After an interesting nights sleep in the desert we left our crater at about 6.30am and dune buggyed back to Huacachina and the oasis for breakfast. It was very damp when we woke up though for some reason. We had breakfast in Huacachina which was eggs again before setting off on a short drive to Nazca to see the famous lines.
The Nazca lines are enormous geometric designs and petroglyphs inscribed on the ground of the desert on the arid high plateau between Nazca and Palpa - some of the figures are over 200m across in size. Many of the lines form stylised depictions of animals, such as monkeys, spiders and hummingbirds, as well as trees and other designs. We stopped en route at this viewpoint where we were able to view two of these designs. They were very faint but we could see them.
We arrived at our campsite in good time and after putting the tents up we had lunch. After lunch we had the option to do a flight to see the Nazca lines from above. I decided to stay and relax by the pool with the wifi as it was very expensive for what it was the flight. When everyone who did the flight came back they said they weren't blown away so I didn't miss much. Come evening we relaxed by the pool before dinner. Dinner was chicken pasta and after clearing up a lot of people had an early night.
Come morning we had an 8am departure to further explore the Nazca area. First stop of the day was this aqueduct system used by the Nazca people to control the water. It was very dry though as it hasn't rained in a long time. The nearby river was even completely dry. We then moved onto the Cahuachi Pyramid which was part of the remains of the old Nazca capital. Archaeologists have only uncovered a small area of this site and a lot of remains under the sand due to lack of funding. It was interesting walking round the old site and our guide was very informative.
The next stop was the Chauchilla Cemetery where we stopped for lunch. We then walked round the large site home to over 400 graves, 13 of which were restored. Due to the lack of rain and unrelentless wind which was very strong there are mummified remains in very good condition. The remains even had hair remaining. It was quite eerie in a way with random bones lieing everywhere and apparently the place is cursed.
After exploring the cemetery we left the Nazca area and drove to our campsite for the night in Puerto Ica, situated on the Peruvian Pacific Coast. Legend says the Incas used to transport fish from this old fishing port to Cuzco 360km away by foot in less than 24 hours. Prior to here we stopped at this olive plantation and got to try various different samples. We spent the evening relaxing, with an amazing sunset, and an equally good bbq including heart which I don't think I've tried before. We then had a big campfire with the other truck and celebrated one of our group members birthdays late into the night.
First stop of the day was the Ballestas Islands which are a series of rock formations in the turbulent waters of the Pacific just off the coast of Paracas. Sometimes referred to as the "poor man's Galapagos", the islands have an abundance of wildlife, including Humboldt penguins, Blackish oystercatchers, cormorants and Peruvian boobies living alongside vast colonies of sealions, all noisily crowding the Ballestas coastline and jostling for space. It was here we went for a boat trip around the islands to see this wildlife and we weren't disappointed seeing an array of wildlife.
After the boat trip we went to this restaurant for lunch which was predominantly seafood. I had the cerviche which was effectively raw fish. The portion was massive though in terms of how much raw fish I could enjoy in one sitting. After lunch we continued our drive onto Huacachina, which is a sparkling oasis nestled in the deserts near Ica in northern Peru, an area that is more reminiscent of the Sahara than South America! This picturesque lagoon is surrounded by palm trees and towering sand dunes and creates a tranquil oasis in the dusty coastal desert. The small town here has become a popular destination for travellers due to its incredible sand boarding and dune buggying opportunities. We arrived here in good time for a afternoon and night of activities.
After loading an overnight bag on this jeep, we got into these dune buggies and drove out into the desert where we drove over these dunes at some speed. It was a great thrill. We eventually at the top of this massive dune to go sandboarding down it face first which was hilarious. We stopped at 4 different locations to do this and I did really well on 3 of them but lost control on the last one and ended up with a mouthful of sand. This included a lot of dune buggying action inbetween.
It eventually started getting late so we went to the top of another dune to watch the sunset which was spectacular. We then headed to our camp for the night, which was basically this crater. This was good as it kept us out the wind which carried a lot of sand in it. We relaxed here and had this amazing bbq and a bottomless glass of Pisco which was very drinkable. It was nice to bond with the new people here and after the bbq we had a campfire and stayed up late into the night. We eventually went to our bed which was basically the desert floor. The sand went everywhere though but it was lots of fun!
After an interesting nights sleep in the desert we left our crater at about 6.30am and dune buggyed back to Huacachina and the oasis for breakfast. It was very damp when we woke up though for some reason. We had breakfast in Huacachina which was eggs again before setting off on a short drive to Nazca to see the famous lines.
The Nazca lines are enormous geometric designs and petroglyphs inscribed on the ground of the desert on the arid high plateau between Nazca and Palpa - some of the figures are over 200m across in size. Many of the lines form stylised depictions of animals, such as monkeys, spiders and hummingbirds, as well as trees and other designs. We stopped en route at this viewpoint where we were able to view two of these designs. They were very faint but we could see them.
We arrived at our campsite in good time and after putting the tents up we had lunch. After lunch we had the option to do a flight to see the Nazca lines from above. I decided to stay and relax by the pool with the wifi as it was very expensive for what it was the flight. When everyone who did the flight came back they said they weren't blown away so I didn't miss much. Come evening we relaxed by the pool before dinner. Dinner was chicken pasta and after clearing up a lot of people had an early night.
Come morning we had an 8am departure to further explore the Nazca area. First stop of the day was this aqueduct system used by the Nazca people to control the water. It was very dry though as it hasn't rained in a long time. The nearby river was even completely dry. We then moved onto the Cahuachi Pyramid which was part of the remains of the old Nazca capital. Archaeologists have only uncovered a small area of this site and a lot of remains under the sand due to lack of funding. It was interesting walking round the old site and our guide was very informative.
The next stop was the Chauchilla Cemetery where we stopped for lunch. We then walked round the large site home to over 400 graves, 13 of which were restored. Due to the lack of rain and unrelentless wind which was very strong there are mummified remains in very good condition. The remains even had hair remaining. It was quite eerie in a way with random bones lieing everywhere and apparently the place is cursed.
After exploring the cemetery we left the Nazca area and drove to our campsite for the night in Puerto Ica, situated on the Peruvian Pacific Coast. Legend says the Incas used to transport fish from this old fishing port to Cuzco 360km away by foot in less than 24 hours. Prior to here we stopped at this olive plantation and got to try various different samples. We spent the evening relaxing, with an amazing sunset, and an equally good bbq including heart which I don't think I've tried before. We then had a big campfire with the other truck and celebrated one of our group members birthdays late into the night.
Saturday, 26 November 2016
Lima
When I woke up in the morning I felt a lot better which was a good sign. We left Huaraz at 7 for the long drive to Lima, driving back the way we came to the coast along the stunning Casma route. We had breakfast on the truck which was an assortment of cakes and pastries, and a lot of fruit which had been purchased the day before. The drive down the mountains was pretty smooth and we were soon on the coastal tarmac road and able to cruise along without any problems.
For lunch we stopped at this restaurant in the middle of nowhere, although I have an onsite farm and play area which kept us amused. The food took ages to come though. We then made one big push for Lima, although the city was massive. It is in fact the 2nd biggest city in the Americas. The outskirts was effectively shanty town and it felt like we were driving through them for ages. The roads were also chaotic as no one seemed to us their lane, with cars all over the place and beeping.
We arrived in Lima pretty late in the end as it was so busy coming in. Lima is split into various different districts and we were staying in the old town. After unpacking we went out for dinner at this steak restaurant. I shared a mixed grill with someone as they did mixed grills in sharing platters. There was a lot of meat. We also said goodbye to 7 members of the group here, including my truck parents who have been on the truck since Cartagena. Afterwards we went out to a few bars and it was pretty late night.
Come morning I was up pretty early and after breakfast set out to explore Lima with a few others. We looked round a couple of churches and this big market place selling all sorts of stuff, before heading the main square, which was a mission to get into. All the streets in were cordoned off as apparently the president was home, but we managed to get in by blagging our way onto a tour group. We watched the changing of the guard and looked round the cathedral, before going for lunch at a local restaurant which had awful service. I had the lasagne.
After lunch I went with a couple of others to another district, Miraflores. This is the rich part of Lima full of big shops and the banking. It was also by the coast. What we actually went to see was the Paddington Bear statue. It was cordoned off however but we could see it. We wanted to go down to the sea but we couldn't work out how to, so we headed back to the old town after a while. Our taxi driver on the way back was a lunatic though!
Come evening I decided to go and visit the fountains and the light show. I went to pizza hut for dinner before and it was a fair walk to the fountains. It was pretty spectacular with uv lighting and music creating images and shapes with the water. There were various different fountains and I spent quite a while looking round. I then headed back to the hotel and relaxed and had an early night as we had a very early start the following morning.
For lunch we stopped at this restaurant in the middle of nowhere, although I have an onsite farm and play area which kept us amused. The food took ages to come though. We then made one big push for Lima, although the city was massive. It is in fact the 2nd biggest city in the Americas. The outskirts was effectively shanty town and it felt like we were driving through them for ages. The roads were also chaotic as no one seemed to us their lane, with cars all over the place and beeping.
We arrived in Lima pretty late in the end as it was so busy coming in. Lima is split into various different districts and we were staying in the old town. After unpacking we went out for dinner at this steak restaurant. I shared a mixed grill with someone as they did mixed grills in sharing platters. There was a lot of meat. We also said goodbye to 7 members of the group here, including my truck parents who have been on the truck since Cartagena. Afterwards we went out to a few bars and it was pretty late night.
Come morning I was up pretty early and after breakfast set out to explore Lima with a few others. We looked round a couple of churches and this big market place selling all sorts of stuff, before heading the main square, which was a mission to get into. All the streets in were cordoned off as apparently the president was home, but we managed to get in by blagging our way onto a tour group. We watched the changing of the guard and looked round the cathedral, before going for lunch at a local restaurant which had awful service. I had the lasagne.
After lunch I went with a couple of others to another district, Miraflores. This is the rich part of Lima full of big shops and the banking. It was also by the coast. What we actually went to see was the Paddington Bear statue. It was cordoned off however but we could see it. We wanted to go down to the sea but we couldn't work out how to, so we headed back to the old town after a while. Our taxi driver on the way back was a lunatic though!
Come evening I decided to go and visit the fountains and the light show. I went to pizza hut for dinner before and it was a fair walk to the fountains. It was pretty spectacular with uv lighting and music creating images and shapes with the water. There were various different fountains and I spent quite a while looking round. I then headed back to the hotel and relaxed and had an early night as we had a very early start the following morning.
Wednesday, 23 November 2016
Huaraz
We left Huanchaco at about 7, ready to climb to our next destination of Huaraz. Breakfast was cereals and toast and we left promptly making fast progress along the flat coastal roads. It wasn't until about midday when we started climbing, stopping for lunch in Pariacoto where I had the chicken. It was impossible to order food though and the people just basically have us the limited dishes they had available! We had a bit of time to look round Pariacoto too which has was about 1300m up, surrounded by hills in all directions.
We then climbed rapidly along winding mountain roads on what is known as the casma route. The scenery was just stunning and we climbed up to about 4200m, even stopping a few times for some natural toilet breaks as we were drinking so much water. When at the top we started decending and we treated to some views of Huaraz which is situated high up in the Andes, dominated by the highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca. Looming over the town is Peru's highest peak, the 6,768m mountain of Huascarán which was amongst the many snowcapped mountains in the skyline. Huaraz itself is about 3000m above sea level.
After checking into our hotel which we arrived at by 4, we had to chance to relax before dinner. For dinner we walked about 10 minutes through town to this curry house. I have to say Huaraz is probably the place that has felt most dangerous so far in South America and I would not feel safe walking down some of the backstreets alone. Lots of drug dealers and drunks everywhere and the place has a reputation for violent muggings. The restaurant we went to however had English owners and I had the fillet steak rogan josh with chapattis which was really good. It took ages to arrive though. We headed back together to the hotel and I had an early night ready for the morning.
Huaraz has many options for activities and we were given an array of options for the 2 days spent in the city. On the Monday I decided to go on a tour to the nearby Pastoruri Glacier. In the past you could go on ice climbing on this but due to global warming it's not as good as it used to be. What I effectively booked instead was a bus trip which included stops at viewpoints and a hike to the glacier itself. There were 8 of us from dragoman on this trip, joined by 4 other random people from other hotels in the city. Leaving at 9 we stopped en route at this cafe where we had some coco leaf tea stuff which apparently prevents altitude sickness.
After the cafe we soon left the tarmac and went off road on this very bumpy gravel track, stopping later at this viewpoint where we could see the snowcapped mountains. There were also two llamas here all dressed up, even wearing sunglasses! We then continued driving a short way, stopping at these large tree things which I can't remember the name of. They were weird. There was also these hot springs here as well. The next stop we saw some interesting rock paintings, before continuing to the point where we started our hike which was 4800m up. That is very high compared to what I've been to before for an extended period.
The hike itself wasn't challenging, being a 2.5km walk along a concrete path past lakes to the glacier itself. Once at the glacier I went over the 5000m mark for the first time but I felt fine, although a couple of others had to head back. The view of the glacier however was just stunning and my photos just didn't do it justice. We were able to go right up close and the surrounding lakes had perfect reflections inside them. The surrounding area was just snowcapped mountains too. We stayed here for quite a while getting pictures.
We the headed back the same way back to the bus where after having lunch we drove back down to Huaraz. It was a very bumpy ride going down the winding gravel track however! We arrived back in Huaraz at about 5 where I relaxed for a bit before dinner, where a few of us went out to this pizza restaurant. I had the calzone and chips, and my new favourite drink of inca kola which I discovered last week! We then headed back where I had another night with an early start planned for the morning.
On the Tuesday I opted to do a day hike to a lake called Laguna 69. This however required an early start and we met at 6 for breakfast which was eggs. The reason we left so early was because it was about a 2.5 hour drive to the start point. En route we stopped at this village where we bought coco leaves to try and prevent the altitude sickness. We arrived at the start point by half 9 and we were told to return by half 3.
The walk to Laguna 69 itself was a 7km walk each way, starting at about 3800m, and rising to 4600m. 800m height gain is challenging anyway but in altitude it is even harder and we were warned to take extra care. The 11 of us who opted to do the trek set off and we were allowed to go our own pace as the path was pretty obvious, with out guide at the back. The walk started off relatively flat following this fast flowing stream along grassland. There were amazing views of the snowcapped mountains surrounding us, including Peru's highest peak behind us.
After a while we began to climb, winding through bushes on a gradual zig zag path. The views were stunning with waterfalls cascading down the sides and the mountains. The final bit of the climb was quite tough however. To put it into context, the landscape reminded me of the lake district, but if you were to take away the oxygen as the air was so thin. After reaching the top we got to this small lake and the terrain levelled out, with cows grazing in this boggy grassland. It was difficult here as due to the glaciers above us melting so rapidly there were effectively streams in various places which were difficult to bypass.
Before long we began to climb again up another zig zag path, this one being far steeper. It was very difficult to breath but we took it nice and easy and eventually made it to the top where we were greeted with a breathtaking sight of laguna 69. With snowcapped mountains surrounding it and waterfalls cascading inside, it was just breathtaking. I even paddled in the water but it was freezing! Everyone arrived at different times, but after being told there was a 60% success rate of making the lake prior, all 11 of us made it. We had lunch up here and got lots of photos before heading off in clusters back down the same way.
The walk down was quicker but felt longer. We could appreciate just how far we climbed, and actually breath properly when decending. This also gave us the opportunity for more amazing photos. We got back to the bus at half 3 on the dot although a few others were a little slower. We ended up heading back at like 4. The drive back took ages though due to traffic, not getting back until like 7. I then spent the evening relaxing as my head caned, probably altitude sickness, but it was fine after a while. I then had an early night.
We then climbed rapidly along winding mountain roads on what is known as the casma route. The scenery was just stunning and we climbed up to about 4200m, even stopping a few times for some natural toilet breaks as we were drinking so much water. When at the top we started decending and we treated to some views of Huaraz which is situated high up in the Andes, dominated by the highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca. Looming over the town is Peru's highest peak, the 6,768m mountain of Huascarán which was amongst the many snowcapped mountains in the skyline. Huaraz itself is about 3000m above sea level.
After checking into our hotel which we arrived at by 4, we had to chance to relax before dinner. For dinner we walked about 10 minutes through town to this curry house. I have to say Huaraz is probably the place that has felt most dangerous so far in South America and I would not feel safe walking down some of the backstreets alone. Lots of drug dealers and drunks everywhere and the place has a reputation for violent muggings. The restaurant we went to however had English owners and I had the fillet steak rogan josh with chapattis which was really good. It took ages to arrive though. We headed back together to the hotel and I had an early night ready for the morning.
Huaraz has many options for activities and we were given an array of options for the 2 days spent in the city. On the Monday I decided to go on a tour to the nearby Pastoruri Glacier. In the past you could go on ice climbing on this but due to global warming it's not as good as it used to be. What I effectively booked instead was a bus trip which included stops at viewpoints and a hike to the glacier itself. There were 8 of us from dragoman on this trip, joined by 4 other random people from other hotels in the city. Leaving at 9 we stopped en route at this cafe where we had some coco leaf tea stuff which apparently prevents altitude sickness.
After the cafe we soon left the tarmac and went off road on this very bumpy gravel track, stopping later at this viewpoint where we could see the snowcapped mountains. There were also two llamas here all dressed up, even wearing sunglasses! We then continued driving a short way, stopping at these large tree things which I can't remember the name of. They were weird. There was also these hot springs here as well. The next stop we saw some interesting rock paintings, before continuing to the point where we started our hike which was 4800m up. That is very high compared to what I've been to before for an extended period.
The hike itself wasn't challenging, being a 2.5km walk along a concrete path past lakes to the glacier itself. Once at the glacier I went over the 5000m mark for the first time but I felt fine, although a couple of others had to head back. The view of the glacier however was just stunning and my photos just didn't do it justice. We were able to go right up close and the surrounding lakes had perfect reflections inside them. The surrounding area was just snowcapped mountains too. We stayed here for quite a while getting pictures.
We the headed back the same way back to the bus where after having lunch we drove back down to Huaraz. It was a very bumpy ride going down the winding gravel track however! We arrived back in Huaraz at about 5 where I relaxed for a bit before dinner, where a few of us went out to this pizza restaurant. I had the calzone and chips, and my new favourite drink of inca kola which I discovered last week! We then headed back where I had another night with an early start planned for the morning.
On the Tuesday I opted to do a day hike to a lake called Laguna 69. This however required an early start and we met at 6 for breakfast which was eggs. The reason we left so early was because it was about a 2.5 hour drive to the start point. En route we stopped at this village where we bought coco leaves to try and prevent the altitude sickness. We arrived at the start point by half 9 and we were told to return by half 3.
The walk to Laguna 69 itself was a 7km walk each way, starting at about 3800m, and rising to 4600m. 800m height gain is challenging anyway but in altitude it is even harder and we were warned to take extra care. The 11 of us who opted to do the trek set off and we were allowed to go our own pace as the path was pretty obvious, with out guide at the back. The walk started off relatively flat following this fast flowing stream along grassland. There were amazing views of the snowcapped mountains surrounding us, including Peru's highest peak behind us.
After a while we began to climb, winding through bushes on a gradual zig zag path. The views were stunning with waterfalls cascading down the sides and the mountains. The final bit of the climb was quite tough however. To put it into context, the landscape reminded me of the lake district, but if you were to take away the oxygen as the air was so thin. After reaching the top we got to this small lake and the terrain levelled out, with cows grazing in this boggy grassland. It was difficult here as due to the glaciers above us melting so rapidly there were effectively streams in various places which were difficult to bypass.
Before long we began to climb again up another zig zag path, this one being far steeper. It was very difficult to breath but we took it nice and easy and eventually made it to the top where we were greeted with a breathtaking sight of laguna 69. With snowcapped mountains surrounding it and waterfalls cascading inside, it was just breathtaking. I even paddled in the water but it was freezing! Everyone arrived at different times, but after being told there was a 60% success rate of making the lake prior, all 11 of us made it. We had lunch up here and got lots of photos before heading off in clusters back down the same way.
The walk down was quicker but felt longer. We could appreciate just how far we climbed, and actually breath properly when decending. This also gave us the opportunity for more amazing photos. We got back to the bus at half 3 on the dot although a few others were a little slower. We ended up heading back at like 4. The drive back took ages though due to traffic, not getting back until like 7. I then spent the evening relaxing as my head caned, probably altitude sickness, but it was fine after a while. I then had an early night.
Monday, 21 November 2016
Huanchaco
Friday was another long drive day. The issue with where we are at the moment is that Lima is a 1200km drive approximately from the border along the coast, and there's not much inbetween as the terrain is arid and effectively desert. Due to this we left our campsite at 6am and had breakfast on the truck. The good thing however was that the roads were both smooth and flat which meant we could cover a lot of ground in a lot less time compared to the mountain passes we've done prior.
En route we stopped at the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, a world-class museum that showcases the finest artefacts from the archaeological finds at nearby Sipán. The ancient city of Sipán was a settlement of the Moche civilisation that thrived in the area between 50-700 CE. The ruins were discovered in 1987, and when excavated revealed a set of fantastic and well-preserved royal tombs. Although some tombs had been plundered, many were found intact and full of some of the most extraordinary historical treasures ever discovered in the world! Amongst the most impressive discoveries made here is the tomb of the famous ‘Lord of the Sipán’, a Moche priest found buried amidst an array of gold, jewels and fabrics - some phenomenal gold and silver ornamental and ceremonial artifacts were recovered, which demonstrate the outstanding craftsmanship of the Moche metalworkers. It was very interesting looking at artefacts on show, although use of cameras were forbidden.
After the museum we had lunch at this restaurant where I had the fish, although it was full of small bones. We then continued our drive south along the coast, arriving in Huanchaco at about 7, so it was a very long day. We had an amazing sunset from the truck though and the sky just turned red. We also had another music quiz on the journey this time with a Disney and musicals theme and I was surprisingly good at it. We also unleashed our new play list where we pick 5 songs each and play them. They didn't shuffle them this time though and my 5 songs were the last 5 songs played. We once again had option to upgrade in Huanchaco, although I camped. I think I'm the only person not to upgrade so far. After the tents were put up we went out for dinner, where I went to this beach bar with live music. I had the beef and onions with chips.
Huanchaco is a small town on the Peruvian coast that is rapidly acquiring a reputation for the quality of the surfing off its relaxed beaches. Wandering along the sea front you come across the local fishermen's "caballitos de tortora" - curved reed boats left propped up in groups together on the sand. Huanchaco is an ideal location from which to explore the numerous archaeological ruins that surround the nearby city of Trujillo. The town itself felt very British as it had a pier and lots of seaside bars and restaurants. After going for a run along the seafront in the morning, and having breakfast which was surprisingly egg based, we left around 9 for a morning to explore the nearby ruins.
First stop was the pyramid-shaped Huaca de la Luna, the impressive remains of the capital of the Moche civilsation that flourished between 100-800 CE. The site contains some phenomenal abode structures and well-preserved painted murals of the Moche deity Ai Apaec. The structure itself has never been restored after being discovered deep under desert sand, and is simply maintained. Much of the structure was sandstone although it doesn't erode as it simply just never really rains. The artwork was amazing. I did somehow prove a hit with these Peruvian a school kids here though and they thought I was really hot. I literally got surrounded and they all wanted pictures with me, while the rest of my group continued the tour.
We then went to the ruins of Chan Chan, a vast adobe city constructed as the capital of the Chimú civilisation which thrived in the area between 900-1470 CE, when they were finally invaded by the Incas. This area was vast and just surrounded by desert for miles in all directions. We had another guided tour here which was very interesting. Apparently they're even expecting rain within the next year due to the el nino effect, something I studied in geography. After the tour we had a truck lunch which was basically fruits and sandwiches, before heading back to the campsite early afternoon.
The afternoon was free time where I relaxed, before going to the beach to look rounds the shops and walk on the pier. I then watched the sunset which was pretty impressive before heading back to the campsite before dinner. For dinner I had this Peruvian seafood paella which was really nice. I then headed back to the campsite and sat outside for a while. I even had wifi inside my tent.
En route we stopped at the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, a world-class museum that showcases the finest artefacts from the archaeological finds at nearby Sipán. The ancient city of Sipán was a settlement of the Moche civilisation that thrived in the area between 50-700 CE. The ruins were discovered in 1987, and when excavated revealed a set of fantastic and well-preserved royal tombs. Although some tombs had been plundered, many were found intact and full of some of the most extraordinary historical treasures ever discovered in the world! Amongst the most impressive discoveries made here is the tomb of the famous ‘Lord of the Sipán’, a Moche priest found buried amidst an array of gold, jewels and fabrics - some phenomenal gold and silver ornamental and ceremonial artifacts were recovered, which demonstrate the outstanding craftsmanship of the Moche metalworkers. It was very interesting looking at artefacts on show, although use of cameras were forbidden.
After the museum we had lunch at this restaurant where I had the fish, although it was full of small bones. We then continued our drive south along the coast, arriving in Huanchaco at about 7, so it was a very long day. We had an amazing sunset from the truck though and the sky just turned red. We also had another music quiz on the journey this time with a Disney and musicals theme and I was surprisingly good at it. We also unleashed our new play list where we pick 5 songs each and play them. They didn't shuffle them this time though and my 5 songs were the last 5 songs played. We once again had option to upgrade in Huanchaco, although I camped. I think I'm the only person not to upgrade so far. After the tents were put up we went out for dinner, where I went to this beach bar with live music. I had the beef and onions with chips.
Huanchaco is a small town on the Peruvian coast that is rapidly acquiring a reputation for the quality of the surfing off its relaxed beaches. Wandering along the sea front you come across the local fishermen's "caballitos de tortora" - curved reed boats left propped up in groups together on the sand. Huanchaco is an ideal location from which to explore the numerous archaeological ruins that surround the nearby city of Trujillo. The town itself felt very British as it had a pier and lots of seaside bars and restaurants. After going for a run along the seafront in the morning, and having breakfast which was surprisingly egg based, we left around 9 for a morning to explore the nearby ruins.
First stop was the pyramid-shaped Huaca de la Luna, the impressive remains of the capital of the Moche civilsation that flourished between 100-800 CE. The site contains some phenomenal abode structures and well-preserved painted murals of the Moche deity Ai Apaec. The structure itself has never been restored after being discovered deep under desert sand, and is simply maintained. Much of the structure was sandstone although it doesn't erode as it simply just never really rains. The artwork was amazing. I did somehow prove a hit with these Peruvian a school kids here though and they thought I was really hot. I literally got surrounded and they all wanted pictures with me, while the rest of my group continued the tour.
We then went to the ruins of Chan Chan, a vast adobe city constructed as the capital of the Chimú civilisation which thrived in the area between 900-1470 CE, when they were finally invaded by the Incas. This area was vast and just surrounded by desert for miles in all directions. We had another guided tour here which was very interesting. Apparently they're even expecting rain within the next year due to the el nino effect, something I studied in geography. After the tour we had a truck lunch which was basically fruits and sandwiches, before heading back to the campsite early afternoon.
The afternoon was free time where I relaxed, before going to the beach to look rounds the shops and walk on the pier. I then watched the sunset which was pretty impressive before heading back to the campsite before dinner. For dinner I had this Peruvian seafood paella which was really nice. I then headed back to the campsite and sat outside for a while. I even had wifi inside my tent.
Saturday, 19 November 2016
Punta Sal
Wednesday was another long drive day, with a border crossing chucked in for good measure, so there was the potential for a very long day. We left at 8am and breakfast was egg based once again. The drive out of Cuenca was interesting though as there were lots of roadworks. Outside of the city they were constructing lots of new roads as tunnels which meant there were effectively off road diversions which were one way. The scenery was still amazing though as we were basically decending from 2600m down to sea level.
We stopped for lunch about 20km off the border in Santa Rosa where I had ribs. I wanted the goat meat but they didn't have it. We then eased our way through the border compared to the last one. It was literally stamp out, stamp in, and drive off. Shortly after crossing the border we stopped in Tumbes to get money although everyone ended up with big notes which was not ideal. We ended up arriving in Punta Sal and our campsite by like 5.
Located right on the beach, our campsite was literally in the middle of nowhere. We pitched up our tents right by the sea under these umbrellas and soon after had this amazing sunset. Dinner in the evening was this fish bbq with salad which was really good. We then made a campfire and it was a really good evening. We could even see Venus, Mars, and Jupiter in the sky. It ended up being quite a late night.
Come morning we had 3 options for the day. We could either stay at Punta Sal and relax on nti the beach all day, drive to the town of Mancora and spend the day there, or visit some turtles and spend the afternoon in Mancora. I went for the turtles. Breakfast in the morning was pancakes, and we left at 9. The place where we visited the turtles was a commercial place where they basically fed wild turtles to aid their tourism. Some people were a little skeptical but I still swam with them and it was an amazing experience.
After the turtles we drove into Mancora where we headed straight down to the beach for lunch where I had the burger. I then went and found a sunbed a short some wifi and just spent the afternoon relaxing, before getting up and looking round the shops and markets of Mancora. We spent most of the afternoon here and ended up arriving back in Punta Sal at like 5. When getting back I went straight in the sea, although the waves were so strong. They could literally knock you off your feet. Dinner in the evening was spaghetti bolognese, and after dinner we had another campfire, including marshmallows this time, before having an earlier night due to an early start the next morning.
We stopped for lunch about 20km off the border in Santa Rosa where I had ribs. I wanted the goat meat but they didn't have it. We then eased our way through the border compared to the last one. It was literally stamp out, stamp in, and drive off. Shortly after crossing the border we stopped in Tumbes to get money although everyone ended up with big notes which was not ideal. We ended up arriving in Punta Sal and our campsite by like 5.
Located right on the beach, our campsite was literally in the middle of nowhere. We pitched up our tents right by the sea under these umbrellas and soon after had this amazing sunset. Dinner in the evening was this fish bbq with salad which was really good. We then made a campfire and it was a really good evening. We could even see Venus, Mars, and Jupiter in the sky. It ended up being quite a late night.
Come morning we had 3 options for the day. We could either stay at Punta Sal and relax on nti the beach all day, drive to the town of Mancora and spend the day there, or visit some turtles and spend the afternoon in Mancora. I went for the turtles. Breakfast in the morning was pancakes, and we left at 9. The place where we visited the turtles was a commercial place where they basically fed wild turtles to aid their tourism. Some people were a little skeptical but I still swam with them and it was an amazing experience.
After the turtles we drove into Mancora where we headed straight down to the beach for lunch where I had the burger. I then went and found a sunbed a short some wifi and just spent the afternoon relaxing, before getting up and looking round the shops and markets of Mancora. We spent most of the afternoon here and ended up arriving back in Punta Sal at like 5. When getting back I went straight in the sea, although the waves were so strong. They could literally knock you off your feet. Dinner in the evening was spaghetti bolognese, and after dinner we had another campfire, including marshmallows this time, before having an earlier night due to an early start the next morning.
Thursday, 17 November 2016
Cuenca
Monday was was effectively a drive day and we were warned it could be a very long day. With about 500km to cover on windy roads, we ended up leaving at 6am with a packed breakfast to eat on the truck. It was a very fresh morning, and shortly after leaving we stopped as there was a fantastic view of the snowcapped Cotopaxi volcano which was very impressive. We couldn't see it when driving in because of the clouds, but we were luckier today. Breakfast was these cheese sandwich based things. The cheese out here is like plastic though so a lot of people have been craving stuff like cheddar for a long time. What I miss is a full English breakfast however.
We stopped at various points en route for toilet breaks, and had lunch on the outskirts of Alausi where we had spaghetti, chicken, and rice, quite an interesting combination. Once again the scenery outside was stunning, and we passed a lot of snow capped peaks. We also passed a lot of whole pigs being cooked on these poles! We did keep ourselves amused on the truck though playing a few games like cards and this game where you draw and write what you see, a bit like Chinese whispers.
We ended up arriving in Cuenca at about 6pm, so it was a long day. After settling into the hotel we went out for dinner to this pizza restaurant. Instead of ordering a normal pizza a few of us ordered 2 of the jumbo pizzas which were massive and shared them. They split the toppings up so we had lots of different types of pizza and this saved lots of money. After dinner we went to this karaoke bar and it was a funny evening. I managed to destroy quite a few songs, although smashed a high school musical duet like usual. We then went back to the hotel and sat in their secret garden, although it turned into quite a late night.
Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city and its small centre is home to some beautiful architecture. The city was founded in 1557 and named after the city of Cuenca in Spain, the birthplace of the Viceroy of Peru at the time. This small university town is a pleasure to explore, and you'll discover impressive churches that date back to the 16th and 17th Centuries, attractive colonial buildings, tranquil plazas and lively markets. The Ecuadorians consider it the finest city in the country, and many of its buildings are constructed from marble and decorated with stunning woodwork and ironwork. Cuenca is also the home of the Panama hat, and you can visit one of the famous hat factories and watch the skills of the craftsman here.
Breakfast in the morning was eggs, fruits, and croissants. It was nice to have some kind of lie in in the morning too. At 10 we had the option of meeting to visit the Panama hat museum. It was really interesting as we got to see the whole process of how they are made, and then try some on at the end. There was even this balcony in the museum where we got a good view of the city. Some people even bought some souvenir hats, although one person bought 250 of them to ship home for their business or something!
After the museum I headed back to the hotel, before heading out to explore the city. I wasn't really sure where to go as everyone was doing different things, so I decided to go on the city bus tour. There was only 3 people of the whole open top bus. With English commentary I saw lots of the churches and rivers that flow through the city. There was also a lot of interesting graffiti and architecture. The tour also took me to the top of this hill where we able to get off and see the skyline. We also got to try this local drink which was like hot water with this sugarcane spirit. I even climbed up to this canopy to get an even better view of the skyline. When getting back on the bus we headed back into the city centre to see some more of the buildings, before arriving back at the square where I started around 2 hours later.
When getting off the bus I headed out for lunch, where I found some British based cafe and had the bacon cheeseburger and chips. I then went and visited the local market which sold many foods and handicrafts. They even had whole pigs including their heads being carved. Another interesting thing were there locals whacking children with these plants and rubbing it all over then. Apparently this is a blessing or something. I headed back to the hotel around 4, where it was nice to relax. Dinner in the evening was up to us so I went with a few others to this local restaurant where I had the sausage and chips. Everyone then had an early night although I stayed up a bit later while the wifi was actually working properly because basically no one was on it.
We stopped at various points en route for toilet breaks, and had lunch on the outskirts of Alausi where we had spaghetti, chicken, and rice, quite an interesting combination. Once again the scenery outside was stunning, and we passed a lot of snow capped peaks. We also passed a lot of whole pigs being cooked on these poles! We did keep ourselves amused on the truck though playing a few games like cards and this game where you draw and write what you see, a bit like Chinese whispers.
We ended up arriving in Cuenca at about 6pm, so it was a long day. After settling into the hotel we went out for dinner to this pizza restaurant. Instead of ordering a normal pizza a few of us ordered 2 of the jumbo pizzas which were massive and shared them. They split the toppings up so we had lots of different types of pizza and this saved lots of money. After dinner we went to this karaoke bar and it was a funny evening. I managed to destroy quite a few songs, although smashed a high school musical duet like usual. We then went back to the hotel and sat in their secret garden, although it turned into quite a late night.
Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city and its small centre is home to some beautiful architecture. The city was founded in 1557 and named after the city of Cuenca in Spain, the birthplace of the Viceroy of Peru at the time. This small university town is a pleasure to explore, and you'll discover impressive churches that date back to the 16th and 17th Centuries, attractive colonial buildings, tranquil plazas and lively markets. The Ecuadorians consider it the finest city in the country, and many of its buildings are constructed from marble and decorated with stunning woodwork and ironwork. Cuenca is also the home of the Panama hat, and you can visit one of the famous hat factories and watch the skills of the craftsman here.
Breakfast in the morning was eggs, fruits, and croissants. It was nice to have some kind of lie in in the morning too. At 10 we had the option of meeting to visit the Panama hat museum. It was really interesting as we got to see the whole process of how they are made, and then try some on at the end. There was even this balcony in the museum where we got a good view of the city. Some people even bought some souvenir hats, although one person bought 250 of them to ship home for their business or something!
After the museum I headed back to the hotel, before heading out to explore the city. I wasn't really sure where to go as everyone was doing different things, so I decided to go on the city bus tour. There was only 3 people of the whole open top bus. With English commentary I saw lots of the churches and rivers that flow through the city. There was also a lot of interesting graffiti and architecture. The tour also took me to the top of this hill where we able to get off and see the skyline. We also got to try this local drink which was like hot water with this sugarcane spirit. I even climbed up to this canopy to get an even better view of the skyline. When getting back on the bus we headed back into the city centre to see some more of the buildings, before arriving back at the square where I started around 2 hours later.
When getting off the bus I headed out for lunch, where I found some British based cafe and had the bacon cheeseburger and chips. I then went and visited the local market which sold many foods and handicrafts. They even had whole pigs including their heads being carved. Another interesting thing were there locals whacking children with these plants and rubbing it all over then. Apparently this is a blessing or something. I headed back to the hotel around 4, where it was nice to relax. Dinner in the evening was up to us so I went with a few others to this local restaurant where I had the sausage and chips. Everyone then had an early night although I stayed up a bit later while the wifi was actually working properly because basically no one was on it.
Tuesday, 15 November 2016
Chugchilian and Quilatoa
We left Rio Verde about half 8 on the Saturday, after another breakfast which was told to be strictly anything other than eggs. Our next location was the village of Chugchilian to visit Quilatoa, a volcanic crater. What we did have though was a lot of climbing as the lake is high above sea level and Rio Verde is not. We stopped off en route in Ambato, and also the small village of Zumbahua for lunch later on. The mountain pass we went over to this village took us over 4000m for the first time! For lunch I had lamb with rice and salad, and a short time after lunch we arrived in Chugchilian about 2 ish.
Chugchilian is set in the slopes of the Rio Toachi Canyon, and is well known for having many stunning hikes in the surrounding areas. We were given the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. I looked round the village which was actually very lively with this intense volleyball match taking place, and the locals being very friendly. Our hotel itself even had a games room with a pool table and table tennis to name a few games. The only thing it lacked was wifi. I then ended up having a nap afterwards as I was exhausted after the previous nights camping. Dinner in the evening was pork which was really nice. I then ended up having an early night, although the temperature had plunged massively so it was freezing.
After a good night's sleep I woke up Sunday morning raring to go to visit the nearby crater. Lake Quilotoa is a beautiful volcanic crater lake located at 3,600m above sea level in the hills between the villages of Zumbahua and Chugchilán. Its emerald water spans a circle with a diameter of 2kms - Quilotoa is an active volcano, but the last major eruption was over 850 years ago. The lake also lends its name to the Quilotoa Loop, given to the winding circuit of spectacular dirt roads that connect Lake Quilotoa to Latacunga and the Pan-American Highway. The roads that lead away from Latacunga are unpaved, winding and have spectacular views of the mountains, rivers and verdant landscape.
Breakfast in the morning was eggs with bread and fruits. We set off in jeeps at about half 8 to drive to the lake, arriving by 9 where we had a brief look round the village, before going to this viewpoint to see the stunning emerald colour lake. We were then given the option to either walk down into the crater or look around Quilotoa, being given a strict meeting time of 11 to return. I decided to walk into the crater. The views of lake was just stunning and I shot down to the waterside within half hour. I even touched the water. Despite many people trying, only 5 of us made it to the bottom. The walk back up was a lot tougher however as being at altitude the air is lot thinner meaning you get out of breath more quickly. It was also very hot. I took about an hour to get back up but the walk was worth it just for the views alone!
I reached the top again with time to spare and met the others to take in the view one last time. We were then given the option of walking the 10km back to Chugchilian, or taking the jeep back to the hostel to relax. I chose the hike and we set off following the rim of the crater. The clouds decended at this point however making it nice and cool, but not cold. The views of the crater were still just as stunning, although the terrain was very loose underfoot meaning a lot of care had to be taken. Before long we left the crater and decended rapidly down the loose terrain into the valley, where at the bottom we had our packed lunches in this remote village. This dog had followed us from Quilatoa all the way here and was in its element here as everyone was feeding it!
After lunch we continued decending, initially following this dirt track, and then dropping into the canyon past waterfalls. The scenery was just amazing. Once on the canyon we headed back up the other side, and followed the edge which was badly eroded in places through to another village where the locals were thrilled to see us. When leaving the village we decended once again into the canyon down a very loose path through rocks and trees right down to this stream and this road. We were then allowed to walk our own pace back to the hostel as the pace en route had been very pedestrian. I therefore tanked it back to the hostel, and somehow never got out of breath despite going back uphill once again. I arrived back at half 3, with the dog who passed out, and we cheered everyone in who arrived over the next hour or so.
I then spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing, with dinner being at 7. Dinner was fish, and after dinner I played pool for a bit, before heading to bed for another early night. Everyone was just really tired, and we had a 6am departure time in the morning!
Chugchilian is set in the slopes of the Rio Toachi Canyon, and is well known for having many stunning hikes in the surrounding areas. We were given the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. I looked round the village which was actually very lively with this intense volleyball match taking place, and the locals being very friendly. Our hotel itself even had a games room with a pool table and table tennis to name a few games. The only thing it lacked was wifi. I then ended up having a nap afterwards as I was exhausted after the previous nights camping. Dinner in the evening was pork which was really nice. I then ended up having an early night, although the temperature had plunged massively so it was freezing.
After a good night's sleep I woke up Sunday morning raring to go to visit the nearby crater. Lake Quilotoa is a beautiful volcanic crater lake located at 3,600m above sea level in the hills between the villages of Zumbahua and Chugchilán. Its emerald water spans a circle with a diameter of 2kms - Quilotoa is an active volcano, but the last major eruption was over 850 years ago. The lake also lends its name to the Quilotoa Loop, given to the winding circuit of spectacular dirt roads that connect Lake Quilotoa to Latacunga and the Pan-American Highway. The roads that lead away from Latacunga are unpaved, winding and have spectacular views of the mountains, rivers and verdant landscape.
Breakfast in the morning was eggs with bread and fruits. We set off in jeeps at about half 8 to drive to the lake, arriving by 9 where we had a brief look round the village, before going to this viewpoint to see the stunning emerald colour lake. We were then given the option to either walk down into the crater or look around Quilotoa, being given a strict meeting time of 11 to return. I decided to walk into the crater. The views of lake was just stunning and I shot down to the waterside within half hour. I even touched the water. Despite many people trying, only 5 of us made it to the bottom. The walk back up was a lot tougher however as being at altitude the air is lot thinner meaning you get out of breath more quickly. It was also very hot. I took about an hour to get back up but the walk was worth it just for the views alone!
I reached the top again with time to spare and met the others to take in the view one last time. We were then given the option of walking the 10km back to Chugchilian, or taking the jeep back to the hostel to relax. I chose the hike and we set off following the rim of the crater. The clouds decended at this point however making it nice and cool, but not cold. The views of the crater were still just as stunning, although the terrain was very loose underfoot meaning a lot of care had to be taken. Before long we left the crater and decended rapidly down the loose terrain into the valley, where at the bottom we had our packed lunches in this remote village. This dog had followed us from Quilatoa all the way here and was in its element here as everyone was feeding it!
After lunch we continued decending, initially following this dirt track, and then dropping into the canyon past waterfalls. The scenery was just amazing. Once on the canyon we headed back up the other side, and followed the edge which was badly eroded in places through to another village where the locals were thrilled to see us. When leaving the village we decended once again into the canyon down a very loose path through rocks and trees right down to this stream and this road. We were then allowed to walk our own pace back to the hostel as the pace en route had been very pedestrian. I therefore tanked it back to the hostel, and somehow never got out of breath despite going back uphill once again. I arrived back at half 3, with the dog who passed out, and we cheered everyone in who arrived over the next hour or so.
I then spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing, with dinner being at 7. Dinner was fish, and after dinner I played pool for a bit, before heading to bed for another early night. Everyone was just really tired, and we had a 6am departure time in the morning!
Monday, 14 November 2016
Rio Verde (Banos)
Tuesday night was somehow an early night as one minute I was packing my bag, the next minute it was like 6am. I think I needed the sleep. After breakfast and a few people having a meltdown because of the election result, we set off at like half 8 for the drive to Rio Verde where we're camping for 3 nights. We stopped shortly into the drive in the town of Tena to do some shopping as we have a few meals to cook. I also got some new flip flops here as my other ones died at the equator.
After leaving Tena we continued driving, stopping at Puyo for lunch where I had this amazing mixed grill, 3 types of sausage, chicken, pork, beef, potatoes, corn and salad. We then continued onto our campsite arriving around 3ish. One thing Rio Verde is famous for is waterfalls, in particular the The Devil’s Cauldron (El Pailon del Diablo). A few of us decided to walk to this waterfall which was about a 20 minute walk after setting up the tents. I probably shouldn't have worn flip flops though as we at the top of this canyon and it was very steep decending down the waterfall below. There was a few viewpoints en route and this incredibly wobbly swing bridge too! When at the bottom we went for a swim although it was very refreshing!
We spent a while at the waterfall before climbing back the incredibly steep steps to return to the campsite. We had a treat in the evening though as the owners were Argentinian and they cooked an Argie Barbie for us. They didn't mess about chucking big joints on the bbq and serving us hunks to eat. It tasted amazing. After dinner it started raining quite hard but luckily there was a nice living area to sit in where we stayed for quite a while, good night though.
Where we are staying at Rio Verde is near the town of Baños, nestled in the shadow of the fiery Tungurahua volcano. Tungurahua is one of Ecuador's largest active volcanoes, and provides an incredible backdrop to treks and explorations in the area. There are some beautiful waterfalls, excellent trekking and mountain biking opportunities, and some famous volcanic hot springs which give the town its name! Baños is basically the adventure capital of Ecuador. On Thursday I therefore decided to go canyoning. Breakfast in the morning was some granola mix (eggs were banned).
Leaving about half 8 we drove into Baños where we went to the canyoning headquarters to be kitted out with wetsuits and helmets. We then drove to the canyon near Rio Negro and got out safety talk and had to practice abseiling before entering the canyon. We didn't end up entering the canyon until gone 11. The first part p of the canyon required us to stand on a rock and just fall backwards into the water below. We then had to jump off this waterfall although the water below was very shallow! Everyone managed this fine but then the fun and games started.
The next section required us to jump off this 10m waterfall. There was the option to avoid it by abseiling instead. The first couple of people went fine, but then someone jumped but jumped straight down instead of leaping out, which meant they landed in these strong currents and got pulled down. When retrieved they were unconscious and had to be revived with chest pumps. It was quite scary. The issue with where it happened though was that it was literally in a canyon in a pool with waterfalls both sides, so it very challenging to relax. I was last to jump but I had to contend with other issues as the weather had turned and it was hammering it down with rain, which meant the water level was rising rapidly and the flow was getting faster. I jumped in fine but the currents were so strong.
The next section was effectively a zipline, where I had to abseil down the waterfall and then fall backwards into the canyon. At this point however the water flow was getting dangerous and we had to get out. This was not easy however as there were just rock cliffs all around us so we had no choice but to let the rapids take us downstream. Luckily further downstream we found a tree and managed to climb out. About 10 minutes later we would have been screwed if we stayed in the water. We then climbed up this very steep and muddy hill through the trees and emerged through the bushes onto the road. It was a relief when out as it had got quite dangerous in terms of the power of the water flow.
It was typical that after we got out the sun came out, and after getting changed we drive to Rio Negro for lunch where I had beef. We then went back to the campsite where I relaxed before going for a walk to Rio Verde which was the nearby village. It was nice to look round and sit by the river. I spent a couple of hours here before returning to the campsite. Dinner in the evening was this vegetable stir fry which was nice. After playing cards and stuff after dinner, I ended up having an early night.
On Friday I opted to go ziplining, and after breakfast we set off into Baños and got a safety briefing before heading up the hill into the canopy. There were 6 ziplines in all, and after being kitted out in harnesses we walked to the first line. The first one was a sit down one which required us to brake with our hand. I was awful. The second one I went upside down. I wasn't expecting to go out the trees and into the canyon though, it was quite high up! The third one I went superman and it was fun. The fourth one I did in a sit position again because I wanted to admire the views. The fifth one we went in pairs superman style holding hands. And the last one, also the longest one, I sat down. It was lots of fun!
After the ziplining I was planning to go to La Casa Del Arbol and the swing at the end of the world. I have seen many pictures of this online and really wanted to go. I was going to go on my own but after showing someone else there ended up being 7 of us going! On a clear day you can see the Tungurahua volcano which is 2.5km away, but it was cloudy. I still got some great pictures though which create an illusion you're swinging into the canyon.
After the swing most people headed back to the campsite, although I decided to get off in Baños. A couple of us had pizza, before going our separate ways. I had a good look round the town which was very adventure equipped and touristy, dominated by the surrounding hills. I then found an Irish bar and watched the England v Scotland game, where there were actually a few English inside. The beer there was so strong though, the weakest one was like 6.6%. After the game I decided just to do a little pub crawl as the bars were pretty lively. I then somehow negotiated the bus system to get back to the campsite which was 17km away. My Spanish is getting better by the day.
Dinner in the evening was pad thai which was really good. We then stayed up for a bit before having another relatively early night.
After leaving Tena we continued driving, stopping at Puyo for lunch where I had this amazing mixed grill, 3 types of sausage, chicken, pork, beef, potatoes, corn and salad. We then continued onto our campsite arriving around 3ish. One thing Rio Verde is famous for is waterfalls, in particular the The Devil’s Cauldron (El Pailon del Diablo). A few of us decided to walk to this waterfall which was about a 20 minute walk after setting up the tents. I probably shouldn't have worn flip flops though as we at the top of this canyon and it was very steep decending down the waterfall below. There was a few viewpoints en route and this incredibly wobbly swing bridge too! When at the bottom we went for a swim although it was very refreshing!
We spent a while at the waterfall before climbing back the incredibly steep steps to return to the campsite. We had a treat in the evening though as the owners were Argentinian and they cooked an Argie Barbie for us. They didn't mess about chucking big joints on the bbq and serving us hunks to eat. It tasted amazing. After dinner it started raining quite hard but luckily there was a nice living area to sit in where we stayed for quite a while, good night though.
Where we are staying at Rio Verde is near the town of Baños, nestled in the shadow of the fiery Tungurahua volcano. Tungurahua is one of Ecuador's largest active volcanoes, and provides an incredible backdrop to treks and explorations in the area. There are some beautiful waterfalls, excellent trekking and mountain biking opportunities, and some famous volcanic hot springs which give the town its name! Baños is basically the adventure capital of Ecuador. On Thursday I therefore decided to go canyoning. Breakfast in the morning was some granola mix (eggs were banned).
Leaving about half 8 we drove into Baños where we went to the canyoning headquarters to be kitted out with wetsuits and helmets. We then drove to the canyon near Rio Negro and got out safety talk and had to practice abseiling before entering the canyon. We didn't end up entering the canyon until gone 11. The first part p of the canyon required us to stand on a rock and just fall backwards into the water below. We then had to jump off this waterfall although the water below was very shallow! Everyone managed this fine but then the fun and games started.
The next section required us to jump off this 10m waterfall. There was the option to avoid it by abseiling instead. The first couple of people went fine, but then someone jumped but jumped straight down instead of leaping out, which meant they landed in these strong currents and got pulled down. When retrieved they were unconscious and had to be revived with chest pumps. It was quite scary. The issue with where it happened though was that it was literally in a canyon in a pool with waterfalls both sides, so it very challenging to relax. I was last to jump but I had to contend with other issues as the weather had turned and it was hammering it down with rain, which meant the water level was rising rapidly and the flow was getting faster. I jumped in fine but the currents were so strong.
The next section was effectively a zipline, where I had to abseil down the waterfall and then fall backwards into the canyon. At this point however the water flow was getting dangerous and we had to get out. This was not easy however as there were just rock cliffs all around us so we had no choice but to let the rapids take us downstream. Luckily further downstream we found a tree and managed to climb out. About 10 minutes later we would have been screwed if we stayed in the water. We then climbed up this very steep and muddy hill through the trees and emerged through the bushes onto the road. It was a relief when out as it had got quite dangerous in terms of the power of the water flow.
It was typical that after we got out the sun came out, and after getting changed we drive to Rio Negro for lunch where I had beef. We then went back to the campsite where I relaxed before going for a walk to Rio Verde which was the nearby village. It was nice to look round and sit by the river. I spent a couple of hours here before returning to the campsite. Dinner in the evening was this vegetable stir fry which was nice. After playing cards and stuff after dinner, I ended up having an early night.
On Friday I opted to go ziplining, and after breakfast we set off into Baños and got a safety briefing before heading up the hill into the canopy. There were 6 ziplines in all, and after being kitted out in harnesses we walked to the first line. The first one was a sit down one which required us to brake with our hand. I was awful. The second one I went upside down. I wasn't expecting to go out the trees and into the canyon though, it was quite high up! The third one I went superman and it was fun. The fourth one I did in a sit position again because I wanted to admire the views. The fifth one we went in pairs superman style holding hands. And the last one, also the longest one, I sat down. It was lots of fun!
After the ziplining I was planning to go to La Casa Del Arbol and the swing at the end of the world. I have seen many pictures of this online and really wanted to go. I was going to go on my own but after showing someone else there ended up being 7 of us going! On a clear day you can see the Tungurahua volcano which is 2.5km away, but it was cloudy. I still got some great pictures though which create an illusion you're swinging into the canyon.
After the swing most people headed back to the campsite, although I decided to get off in Baños. A couple of us had pizza, before going our separate ways. I had a good look round the town which was very adventure equipped and touristy, dominated by the surrounding hills. I then found an Irish bar and watched the England v Scotland game, where there were actually a few English inside. The beer there was so strong though, the weakest one was like 6.6%. After the game I decided just to do a little pub crawl as the bars were pretty lively. I then somehow negotiated the bus system to get back to the campsite which was 17km away. My Spanish is getting better by the day.
Dinner in the evening was pad thai which was really good. We then stayed up for a bit before having another relatively early night.
Wednesday, 9 November 2016
Ecuadorian Amazon
We had another start Sunday morning for the shortish drive to our next stop in the amazon. The truck was loaded before 7 and breakfast was once again egg related, setting off by 8. Getting out of Quito was quite a challenge though as many of the roads were closed which meant it took longer than expected to reach the main road.
Once out of Quito we got onto some more spectacular mountain passes, driving through increasingly jungle like surroundings. The road was dodgy in places though as some of the barriers and road had collapsed due to landslides! We stopped en route at this lake where we got a few pictures, and I walked down to this little jetty which was nice. We arrived at our lodge in the amazon by lunchtime, where a lunch of grilled chicken and chips was waiting for us! Our accommodation is really nice, staying in these hut things en suite, with even a hammock provided!
We spent the afternoon relaxing, before heading off for a trek into the jungle at 3 to walk to this waterfall. We had a guide, and en route we stopped and learned about various different plants. I didn't really understand what was going on half the time but the plants had fascinating smells and tastes. Like one plant had ants inside which we ate, and another when squeezed let out this potent smell which they tricked into putting into my mouth. Other fascinating plants included this fern which closed its leaves when touching it, and this tree which had this orange substance which they rubbed on our skin which was apparently good for you.
When arriving at the waterfall we had the opportunity to swim. I decided not to go in although a few people braved it. The walk itself was interesting as it was wet and muddy, and slippery in places which made it challenging when going up and down hill. We ended up staying out for about 3 hours hiking, but we didn't go far as we stopped so often to learn about the surroundings. Dinner in the evening was this beef medallion with these croquettes and other stuff, preceded by this mashed potato style soup. We even had this chocolate fudge cake after. I went to bed early though in the evening as lack of sleep was catching up with me!
After an early night Sunday I woke up Monday with a solid 10 hours sleep in the bag which was much needed. It was raining in the morning though. After breakfast which was tropical fruits and fried eggs for a change, with these potato things, we were told to get ready for a 9am start for another walk into the jungle. We continued to learn about plants on the walk, and our guide once again made various silly things like hats and bracelets for us out of leaves for us to wear. There were even opportunities to swing on these vines which was fun. It wax once again very slippery underfoot although they have supplied us with wellington boots for the duration of our stay.
We eventually arrived at this cave which were able to explore. It was effectively a stream but absolutely fine to walk through in wellies. We were in there for quite a while and needed torches, which I didn't have but it was fine. The issue was there were lots of massive spiders on the wall, and even bats inside. Some of the passes were slightly narrow but there were never a time I had to crawl and it was very interesting exploring. We exited the cave in a different place. When leaving the cave we walked back to the lodge, via this waterfall where we had the chance we swim again. It was nice however just standing nearby and letting the mist hit me as it very humid!
We arrived back at the lodge shortly before lunch where we had this traditional pastry thing, then this popcorn soup which sounds weird but worked, followed by steak with all sorts on the side, and this pineapple thing after. I wasn't really expecting a four course lunch but it was good. I then sat the afternoon relaxing by the pool, before getting ready for a trip to another set of caves which we left to visit at 3.
To get to the next set of caves we got in the truck for a 20 minute drive to visit them. A few people decided not to visit these ones and relax at the lodge. These caves were a lot bigger but also a wetter and required swimming in places. Once entering the cave and swimming through the water, we soon climbed up through some tight passages, with no need to crawl, where we sat down after a while and learned about the religious significance of the caves, and even had a minutes silence. We then headed back to the water and followed the water up to this waterfall where we allowed to enter it. The first one was this plunge pool which I dived about 5 metres down this tight hole to pick up this gravel at the bottom. The second part was a chance to jump into the pool which I fell off and banged my leg after misjudging my step, although I was fine. We finally exited the caves by scrambling up these rocks and coming out in the jungle.
After walking back to truck we went in the local swimming pool filled by the natural green water. It was very exciting as there were water slides which were lots of fun. We ended arriving back at the lodge by like 6. Dinner in the evening was another soup, followed by this chicken based meal, and then this flan. After dinner though was exciting as we got to learn how to make chocolate. We roasted the cocoa beans and after they were nice and hot peeled the shells off them. We then had to crush up the insides into this powder, and then mix in some milk and sugar and heat it again into this thick melted chocolate mix. We then added our choice of flavour, so I added honey and it tasted amazing! The evening was then spent relaxing, although it was raining again. We were in rainforest with respect.
Tuesday was another full on day, with breakfast at 7.30 for an 8am start. Breakfast was pancakes and eggs, with tropical fruits. We went out in the truck when everyone was ready and drove to this indigenous village where we learned about their lifestyle. The first part took us to the river where we panned for gold. There was actually gold but in minuscule amounts after filling a bowl with mud and cleaning it out. We then went into the village where we learned about their hunting techniques. We got to use this big tube thing which fired an arrow when blowing inside it. We had to try and hit this wooden parrot. I missed but not by far.
We then learned how to make this drink which was called chisa or something. It was basically made by boiling some yucca and then mashing it up into this paste. After adding water it was wrapped inside this leaf and left for 3 days. Luckily they skipped this step for us and the final drink was this milky coloured liquid which tasted really sweet. We then learned about how they made pottery and got to play with the clay. They used different coloured stones which they crushed to powder to colour their pottery and the final pieces were very impressive.
After leaving the village, we continued our drive to the river Napu where we got on a boat for a trip down the river. They were basically big canoes with a roof and motor. The river Napu is a tributary to the river Amazon. We didn't see much wildlife en route, although we did travel through jungle and along brown murky water, with some gentle rapids along the way! We stopped after a while at this animal rescue centre where we got to see various animals including monkeys, anaconda, camon, and wild cats. It was very interesting.
After looking round we got back into the boats and headed back upstream which was actually quite challenging against the flow. The boat I was on even hit a rock at one point which was sketchy. We didn't end up arriving back until 3 where we had lunch, beef stew, before driving off to the town of Misahualli which is known to have monkeys roaming round. The monkeys basically couldn't be bothered to live in the jungle anymore so came to the town. We saw quite a few although they wouldn't stay still!
We arrived back at the lodge at close to 6 so it was quite a long day. Dinner in the evening was soup, this vegetable bake thing, and this fruit salad. Everyone was going on about the us election though which was interesting.
Once out of Quito we got onto some more spectacular mountain passes, driving through increasingly jungle like surroundings. The road was dodgy in places though as some of the barriers and road had collapsed due to landslides! We stopped en route at this lake where we got a few pictures, and I walked down to this little jetty which was nice. We arrived at our lodge in the amazon by lunchtime, where a lunch of grilled chicken and chips was waiting for us! Our accommodation is really nice, staying in these hut things en suite, with even a hammock provided!
We spent the afternoon relaxing, before heading off for a trek into the jungle at 3 to walk to this waterfall. We had a guide, and en route we stopped and learned about various different plants. I didn't really understand what was going on half the time but the plants had fascinating smells and tastes. Like one plant had ants inside which we ate, and another when squeezed let out this potent smell which they tricked into putting into my mouth. Other fascinating plants included this fern which closed its leaves when touching it, and this tree which had this orange substance which they rubbed on our skin which was apparently good for you.
When arriving at the waterfall we had the opportunity to swim. I decided not to go in although a few people braved it. The walk itself was interesting as it was wet and muddy, and slippery in places which made it challenging when going up and down hill. We ended up staying out for about 3 hours hiking, but we didn't go far as we stopped so often to learn about the surroundings. Dinner in the evening was this beef medallion with these croquettes and other stuff, preceded by this mashed potato style soup. We even had this chocolate fudge cake after. I went to bed early though in the evening as lack of sleep was catching up with me!
After an early night Sunday I woke up Monday with a solid 10 hours sleep in the bag which was much needed. It was raining in the morning though. After breakfast which was tropical fruits and fried eggs for a change, with these potato things, we were told to get ready for a 9am start for another walk into the jungle. We continued to learn about plants on the walk, and our guide once again made various silly things like hats and bracelets for us out of leaves for us to wear. There were even opportunities to swing on these vines which was fun. It wax once again very slippery underfoot although they have supplied us with wellington boots for the duration of our stay.
We eventually arrived at this cave which were able to explore. It was effectively a stream but absolutely fine to walk through in wellies. We were in there for quite a while and needed torches, which I didn't have but it was fine. The issue was there were lots of massive spiders on the wall, and even bats inside. Some of the passes were slightly narrow but there were never a time I had to crawl and it was very interesting exploring. We exited the cave in a different place. When leaving the cave we walked back to the lodge, via this waterfall where we had the chance we swim again. It was nice however just standing nearby and letting the mist hit me as it very humid!
We arrived back at the lodge shortly before lunch where we had this traditional pastry thing, then this popcorn soup which sounds weird but worked, followed by steak with all sorts on the side, and this pineapple thing after. I wasn't really expecting a four course lunch but it was good. I then sat the afternoon relaxing by the pool, before getting ready for a trip to another set of caves which we left to visit at 3.
To get to the next set of caves we got in the truck for a 20 minute drive to visit them. A few people decided not to visit these ones and relax at the lodge. These caves were a lot bigger but also a wetter and required swimming in places. Once entering the cave and swimming through the water, we soon climbed up through some tight passages, with no need to crawl, where we sat down after a while and learned about the religious significance of the caves, and even had a minutes silence. We then headed back to the water and followed the water up to this waterfall where we allowed to enter it. The first one was this plunge pool which I dived about 5 metres down this tight hole to pick up this gravel at the bottom. The second part was a chance to jump into the pool which I fell off and banged my leg after misjudging my step, although I was fine. We finally exited the caves by scrambling up these rocks and coming out in the jungle.
After walking back to truck we went in the local swimming pool filled by the natural green water. It was very exciting as there were water slides which were lots of fun. We ended arriving back at the lodge by like 6. Dinner in the evening was another soup, followed by this chicken based meal, and then this flan. After dinner though was exciting as we got to learn how to make chocolate. We roasted the cocoa beans and after they were nice and hot peeled the shells off them. We then had to crush up the insides into this powder, and then mix in some milk and sugar and heat it again into this thick melted chocolate mix. We then added our choice of flavour, so I added honey and it tasted amazing! The evening was then spent relaxing, although it was raining again. We were in rainforest with respect.
Tuesday was another full on day, with breakfast at 7.30 for an 8am start. Breakfast was pancakes and eggs, with tropical fruits. We went out in the truck when everyone was ready and drove to this indigenous village where we learned about their lifestyle. The first part took us to the river where we panned for gold. There was actually gold but in minuscule amounts after filling a bowl with mud and cleaning it out. We then went into the village where we learned about their hunting techniques. We got to use this big tube thing which fired an arrow when blowing inside it. We had to try and hit this wooden parrot. I missed but not by far.
We then learned how to make this drink which was called chisa or something. It was basically made by boiling some yucca and then mashing it up into this paste. After adding water it was wrapped inside this leaf and left for 3 days. Luckily they skipped this step for us and the final drink was this milky coloured liquid which tasted really sweet. We then learned about how they made pottery and got to play with the clay. They used different coloured stones which they crushed to powder to colour their pottery and the final pieces were very impressive.
After leaving the village, we continued our drive to the river Napu where we got on a boat for a trip down the river. They were basically big canoes with a roof and motor. The river Napu is a tributary to the river Amazon. We didn't see much wildlife en route, although we did travel through jungle and along brown murky water, with some gentle rapids along the way! We stopped after a while at this animal rescue centre where we got to see various animals including monkeys, anaconda, camon, and wild cats. It was very interesting.
After looking round we got back into the boats and headed back upstream which was actually quite challenging against the flow. The boat I was on even hit a rock at one point which was sketchy. We didn't end up arriving back until 3 where we had lunch, beef stew, before driving off to the town of Misahualli which is known to have monkeys roaming round. The monkeys basically couldn't be bothered to live in the jungle anymore so came to the town. We saw quite a few although they wouldn't stay still!
We arrived back at the lodge at close to 6 so it was quite a long day. Dinner in the evening was soup, this vegetable bake thing, and this fruit salad. Everyone was going on about the us election though which was interesting.
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